Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [199]
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Eating & Drinking
Barock-Café Anders ( 238 14; Hoher Weg 4; cake from €2.70; 8.30am-6pm; ) The first thing that strikes you here is the wonderful smell of cakes and confectionery, the delicious specialities.
Das Schwarze Schaf ( 319 5111; Jakobikirchhof 7; dishes €4.30-9; 11am-8.30pm; ) This sleek eatery has a large menu of salads, pasta, Flammkuchen (Alsatian pizzas), stir-fries and grills, all served at wooden tables in a bright Asian-European crossover atmosphere. It is popular among a broad crowd of all ages for its appetising nosh. Dishes can be ordered takeaway (€13 minimum order).
Die Butterhanne ( 228 86; Marktkirchhof 3; mains €8.90-14; from 8.30am; ) The fare is traditional and regular here, the outdoor seating is nice and on the first Saturday of the month the tables are cleared and the place morphs into a throbbing nightspot from 10pm. The name refers to a famous local frieze showing a milkmaid churning butter while clutching her buttock to insult her employer – don’t try it on disco night.
Henry’s ( 317 400; www.henrys-erleben.de, in German; Markt 6; pasta €9-18, mains €17-22; 10am-1am Sun-Thu, 10am-3am Fri & Sat; ) This stylish addition to Goslar’s eating and drinking scene serves a peanut-sauce curry along with three different chutneys. The bar and lounge area has a comfortable minimalist edge with sofas for chilling out day and night. Henry’s is also a comfortable hotel with doubles for between €125 and €165.
Restaurant Aubergine ( 421 36; www.aubergine-goslar.de, in German; Marktstrasse 4; mains €12-19.50; noon-2.30pm & 6-11.30pm; ) The Mediterra-nean Aubergine is a favourite among locals and visitors in the region for the good quality of its nontraditional cuisine, crisp table cloths and service, and classy atmosphere.
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Shopping
Hoher Weg has shops selling souvenirs, especially puppets and marionettes, many of them portraying witches.
Schnaps und So ( 396 636; Hokenstrasse 3) This is a great local booze store, but approach the Harz fruit wines and herbal schnapps with caution – some of them may leave you the worse for wear.
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Getting There & Away
BUS
The office of Regionalbus Braunschweig (RBB; 194 49; www.rbb-bus.de, in German; Bahnhof), from where buses depart, has free timetables for services throughout the Harz region. Bus 831 runs between Goslar and Altenau in the south via Clausthal-Zellerfeld; 830 runs to Clausthal-Zellerfeld via Hahnenklee. Change to the 840 at Clausthal-Zellerfeld for St Andreasberg. Trains are easier to get to Bad Harzburg, where you can take bus 820 to Torfhaus. BerlinLinienBus runs daily to Berlin (one way €29 via Magdeburg). For timetables and bookings, refer to DER-Reisebüro ( 757 90; Bahnhof).
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
The B6 runs north to Hildesheim and east to Bad Harzburg, Wernigerode and Quedlinburg. The north–south A7 is reached via the B82. For Hahnenklee, take the B241. Car rental is available at Europcar ( 251 38; Lindenplan 3).
TRAIN
Bad Harzburg-Hanover trains stop here often, as do trains on the Braunschweig–Göttingen line. There are frequent direct trains to Wernigerode (€8.40, 45 minutes); for more frequent services change at Vienenburg.
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Getting Around
Local bus tickets cost €2.10. To book a taxi, ring 1313. Hans Speed ( 685 734; hans-speed@freenet.de; Kuhlenkamp 1c) rents mountain and city bikes for €10 per day.
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HAHNENKLEE
05325 / pop 1300
Surrounded by forest some 12km southwest of Goslar, this small, if somewhat staid, spa town makes a good day trip from Goslar for skiing in winter or hiking in summer.
The tourist office ( 510 40; www.hahnenklee.de; Kurhausweg 7; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat & Sun May-Sep, 9am-4pm