Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [205]
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NARROW-GAUGE RAILWAYS
Fans of old-time trains or unusual journeys will be in their element on any of the three narrow-gauge railways crossing the Harz. This 140km integrated network – the largest in Europe – is served by 25 steam and 10 diesel locomotives, which tackle gradients of up to 1:25 (40%) and curves as tight as 60m in radius. Most locomotives date from the 1950s, but eight historic models, some from as early as 1897, are proudly rolled out for special occasions.
The network, a legacy of the GDR, consists of three lines. The Harzquerbahn runs 60km on a north–south route between Wernigerode and Nordhausen. The serpentine 14km between Wernigerode and Drei Annen Hohne includes 72 bends; you’ll get dropped off on the edge of Harz National Park.
From the junction at Drei Annen Hohne, the Brockenbahn begins the steep climb to Schierke and the Brocken. Direct services to the Brocken can also be picked up from Wernigerode and Nordhausen, or at stations en route; single/return tickets cost €17/26 from all stations.
The third service is the Selketalbahn, which begins in Quedlinburg and runs to Eisfelder Talmühle or Hasselfelde. At Eisfelder Tal, you can change trains for other lines. The picturesque Selketalbahn crosses the plain to Gernrode and follows Wellbach, a creek with a couple of good swimming holes, through deciduous forest to Mägdesprung, before joining the Selke Valley and climbing past Alexisbad to high plains around Friedrichshöhe, Stiege and beyond.
Passes for three/five days cost €42/47 per adult (children half-price). Timetables and information can be picked up from Harzer Schmalspurbahnen ( 03943-5580; www.hsb-wr.de, in German; Hauptbahnhof, Wernigerode) or in Quedlinburg.
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SCHLOSS
Originally built in the 12th century to protect German Kaisers on hunting expeditions, Schloss Wernigerode ( 553 030; www.schloss-wernigerode.de; adult/concession/child €5/4.50/2; 10am-6pm May-Oct, 10am-4pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun Nov-Apr) was enlarged over the years to reflect late-Gothic and Renaissance tastes. Its fairy-tale facade came courtesy of Count Otto of Stolberg-Wernigerode in the 19th century. The museum inside includes portraits of Kaisers, beautiful panelled rooms with original furnishings and the opulent Festsaal (Banquet Hall).
The stunning Schlosskirche (1880) has an altar and pulpit made of French marble. You can climb the castle tower (admission €1), but the views from the castle or restaurant terrace (best appreciated late in the day) are free and just as spectacular.
You can walk (1.5km) or take a Bimmelbahn wagon ride (adult/child return €4.50/2) from Marktstrasse. In summer, horse-drawn carts make the trek from Markt.
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Activities
The deciduous forest behind the castle is crisscrossed with lovely trails and Forstwege (forestry tracks). Wernigerode is also a good starting point for hikes and bike rides into the Harz National Park. Bad-Bikes ( 626 868; www.badbikes-online.de, in German; Breite Strasse 48a) rents good mountain and city bikes for between €10 and €17.50 per day.
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Sleeping
DJH hostel ( 606 176; www.jugendherberge.de/jh/wernigerode; Am Eichberg 5; dm under/over 27yr €18/21, s €31; ) On the edge of the forest about 2.5km west of town in Hasserode, the renovated DJH hostel has two-, three- and four-bed dorms with bathrooms. There’s also a sauna and solarium here, and nearby is the large Brockenbad swimming