Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [209]
On top is the Brockenhaus ( 039455-500 05; www.nationalpark-harz.de, in German; adult/child €4/2, concession €3-3.50; 9.30am-5pm), with a cafe, interactive displays and a viewing platform. In summer (but only in snow-free conditions) rangers conduct one-hour tours of the plateau, which includes the alpine garden, or separate tours of the alpine garden. Plateau tours usually depart at 11.30am and 2pm, and garden tours at 11.15am and 1pm. These can change, though, so best to call ahead for times if you want to join one.
Torfhaus itself is a good starting point for cross-country skiing or winter ski treks, with plenty of equipment available for hire. Downhill skiing is limited to 1200m (on two pistes); one recommended route is the Kaiserweg. Make sure you pack a good map and take all precautions. The Nationalparkhaus ( 05320-263; www.nationalpark-harz.de, in German; Torfhaus 21; 9am-5pm Apr-Oct, 10am-4pm Nov-Mar) has information on the park.
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Getting There & Away
Bus 820 stops at Torfhaus on the well-served Bad Harzburg–Braunlage route.
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QUEDLINBURG
03946 / pop 22,000
With its intact Altstadt and over 1400 half-timbered houses dating from six centuries ago, Quedlinburg is a highlight of any trip to the Harz. In 1994 the city became a Unesco World Heritage Site; since then, work to save the crumbling treasures lining its romantic cobblestone streets has gradually progressed.
In the 10th century the Reich was briefly ruled from here by two women, Theophano and Adelheid, successive guardians of the 10th-century child-king Otto III, and Quedlinburg itself is closely associated with the Frauenstift, a medieval foundation for widows and daughters of the nobility that enjoyed the direct protection of the Kaiser.
Although the Altstadt can get crowded in summer and on weekends, any time of year is nice for a visit.
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Orientation
The circular medieval centre of the old town is a 10-minute walk from the Hauptbahnhof (central train station) along Bahnhofstrasse. To reach the Markt, follow the road around and turn left into Heiligegeiststrasse after the post office. Hohe Strasse, off the Markt, leads south to the castle.
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Information
Harzerschmalspurbahnen ( 527 191; www.hsb-wr.de, in German; Marktstrasse 1; 10am-5pm Nov–mid-Apr, 9am-1pm & 1.30-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun mid-Apr–Oct) Narrow-gauge railway information.
Klinik Dorothea Christiane Erxleben ( 9090; Ditfurter Weg 24) Medical services.
Police ( 9770; Schillerstrasse 3)
Post office (Bahnhofstrasse)
Quedlinburg-Tourismus ( 905 625; www.quedlinburg.de; Markt 2; 9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am- 4pm Sat, 9.30am-2pm Sun May-Oct, 9.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-2pm Sat Nov-Apr) Visit here for tourist information.
Sparkasse ( 9050; Markt 15) ATM and banking services.
Spielstube ( 4401; Breite Strasse 39; per hr €2; 9am-10pm Mon-Sat, 2-10pm Sun) Internet access.
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Sights
AROUND THE MARKT
Built in 1320, the Rathaus has been expanded over the years and was adorned with a Renaissance facade in 1616. Inside, the beautiful Festsaal is decorated with a cycle of frescoes focusing on Quedlinburg’s colourful history. The Roland statue (1426) in front of the Rathaus dates from the year Quedlinburg joined the Hanseatic League.
Behind the Rathaus is the late-Gothic Marktkirche St Benedikti. On the tower you’ll see a small house used by town watchmen until 1901. The mausoleum nearby survived the relocation of the church graveyard during the 19th century.
There are some fine half-timbered buildings near Marktkirche; arguably the most spectacular is the Gildehaus zur Rose (1612) at Breite Strasse 39, with a richly carved and panelled interior (Click here).
Return to the Markt and walk through Schuhhof, a shoemakers’ courtyard, which is on the east side, and has shutters and stablelike ‘gossip