Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [219]
At the end of Mettengasse, turn left into Grosse Arche and continue via Allerheiligenstrasse to the Andreasviertel, the former university quarter. At Allerheiligenstrasse 20 is the Haus zur Engelsburg (17), where a group of humanist philosophers met in Luther’s day to compose at least two contentious Dunkelmännerbriefe (Obscurantists’ Letters), satirical letters mocking contemporary theology, science and teaching practices.
A few steps further and you’re at the Gothic Michaeliskirche (18; Click here), the former university church. The original university itself, the Collegium Majus (19), was destroyed by bombs in 1945, leaving only the handsome Gothic portal to admire. The university (founded in 1392, closed in 1816 and reopened in 1994) was so influential that Luther referred to it as ‘my mother to whom I owe everything’.
Continue on Michaelisstrasse, cross the idyllic Gera River and hook a right on Comthurgasse to arrive at the Augustiner-kloster (20; Click here), where Luther was a monk. From Comthurgasse, turn right onto Gotthardtstrasse, which takes you to Wenigemarkt square and the famous Krämerbrücke (21; Click here). Poke your head inside the little stores, then, at the end of the bridge, turn right onto Michaelisstrasse and immediately left on Waagegasse to the Alte Synagoge (22; p265) and its famous gold treasure.
Double back, then turn right at the tourist office and head straight to Fischmarkt, a medieval market square, home to such pretty buildings as the 1584 Haus zum Breiten Herd (23), with a rich Renaissance facade and a frieze depicting the five human senses. The frieze theme got picked up again in 1892 at the next-door Gildehaus (24), decorated with depictions of the four virtues. On the square’s northern side, contemporary art mixes well with the Renaissance setting of the Haus zum Roten Ochsen (25), now home of the Kunsthalle Erfurt ( 655 5660; www.kunsthalle-erfurt.de; Fischmarkt 7; adult/concession €3/1.50; 11am-6pm Tue, Wed & Fri-Sun, to 8pm Thu). Opposite, the neo-Gothic Rathaus (26; 8am-6pm Mon, Tue & Thu, to 4pm Wed, to 2pm Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun), built 1870–75, has a series of murals depicting scenes from Luther’s life, as well as the Tannhäuser and Faust legends. On the 3rd floor is an extravagant festival hall.
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Sleeping
BUDGET
The Erfurt tourist office has access to a large contingent of private rooms ( 664 0110), starting at €20 per person.
Re_4 Hostel ( 600 0110; www.re4hostel.de; Puschkinstrasse 21; dm €13-16, s/d without bathroom €20/40, s/d with bathroom €26/52, linen €2; ) If you’ve ever spent a night in a police lock-up, staying in this former police station might give you flashbacks – or not. It’s run by an energetic, clued-in crew, happy to help you make the most out of your stay in Erfurt. Room 13 has a chilling surprise. The hostel’s about 1.5km from the Hauptbahnhof.
Opera Hostel ( 6013 1366; www.opera-hostel.de; Walkmühlstrasse 13; dm €13-18, s/d/tr without bathroom €37/48/66, s/d/tr with bathroom €45/54/75, linen €2.50; ) Run with smiles and aplomb, this upmarket hostel in a historic building scores big with wallet-watching global nomads. You’ll sleep like a log in bright, spacious rooms, many with an extra sofa for chilling, and make friends in the communal kitchen and on-site lounge-bar.
Pension Rad-Hof ( 602 7761; www.rad-hof.de, in German; Kirchgasse 1b; s €30-55, d €50-60; ) The owners of this cyclist-friendly guest house, next to the Augustinian monastery and near the pub quarter, have gone the extra mile in renovating the building with natural materials, such as wood and mud. No two rooms are alike.
Evangelisches Augustinerkloster zu Erfurt ( 664 0110; www.augustinerkloster.de; Augustinerstrasse