Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [235]
Schlosshotel Eisenach ( 214 260; www.schlosshotel-eisenach.de; Marktplatz 10; s €75-88, d €114-124, ste €130-190; ) Most rooms, the nicest with balconies, face the quiet inner courtyard in this sprawling central complex. Its upmarket amenities lure business types during the week, but the sauna is perfect any time for unwinding or soothing post-hike muscles.
Hotel auf der Wartburg ( 797 223; www.wartburghotel.de; Auf der Wartburg; s/d from €145/220; ) Built in 1914, this hotel has subdued colours and furnishings to match the historic site. The singles at this luxury address are called ‘Luther’ rooms, but, for serious opulence, book one in the ‘Prince’ category.
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LUDWIG DER SPRINGER – TAKING THE JUMP
German gentry is rife with quirky monikers. Henry the Fowler was supposedly out catching birds one day when someone told him he’d just become king. The unfortunate 13th-century Thuringian landgrave, Henry the Illustrious, squabbled for years over Thuringia and other territories, and had a son called Albert the Degenerate. Karl the Bald got his byname for obvious reasons. Ludwig the Rich probably didn’t even earn his. But what about Ludwig der Springer (meaning Ludwig the Jumper)? Ludwig supposedly got his jumping-jack moniker when he sprang out of a window into the Saale River in Halle. The great leap occurred after he was jailed for fatally stabbing the margrave Friedrich III in a squabble over Saxony. To make amends for his foul deed against Friedrich, he founded the Benedictine monastery that now lies under the foundations of Schloss Reinhardsbrunn (opposite) in what is now – you guessed it – Friedrichroda.
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Eating & Drinking
Zucker + Zimt ( 217 588; Markt 2; dishes €2.50-11.50; 10am-8pm, to 10pm May-Oct; ) A whiff of urbanity in stuffy Eisenach, this upbeat cafe, dressed in mod apple green, fully embraces the ‘bio’ trend. Organic and fair-trade ingredients find their destination in light creative mains, bagel sandwiches, stuffed crêpes and homemade cakes.
Brunnenkeller ( 212 358; Markt 10; mains €7.50-16; 11am-11pm Apr-Oct, lunch Thu-Mon, dinner daily Nov-Mar; ) Linen-draped tables beneath an ancient vaulted brick ceiling set the tone of this traditional chow house in a former monastery cellar. Quite predictably, the food is honest-to-goodness German and regional classics.
Turmschänke ( 213 533; Wartburgallee 2; mains €10-22, 3-/4-course menu €29/35; dinner Mon-Sat; ) This hushed hideaway in Eisenach’s only surviving medieval city gate scores a perfect 10 on the ‘romance-meter.’ Walls panelled in polished oak, beautiful table settings and immaculate service are a perfect foil for Ulrich Rösch’s flavour-packed concoctions that teeter between trendy and traditional.
Café Balance ( 715 29; Mariental 3; ) This congenial cafe in a grand art-nouveau villa makes a great pit stop on your way to or from the Wartburg. The tea selection is stratospheric (more than 150 varieties), but fans of java and homemade cakes will also get their fill.
Schorsch’l ( 0173 372 5174; www.schorschl.de; Georgenstrasse 19; 7pm-2am) Smoke gets in your eyes, but otherwise this is a relaxed pub drawing all comers for drinks, chatter and the occasional live band.
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Getting There & Around
Direct regional trains run frequently to Erfurt (€10.30, 45 minutes), Gotha (€5.10, 25 minutes) and Weimar (€13.30, 1¼ hours). ICE trains are faster and also serve Frankfurt am Main (€34, 1¾ hours) while IC trains go to Berlin-Hauptbahnhof (€61, 3¼ hours).
If you’re driving, Eisenach is right on the A4 and is crossed by the B7, B19 and B84.
Zweirad Henning ( 784 738; Schmelzerstrasse 4-6; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) rents out bikes for €8 per day and also does repairs. Pick up a cycling map from the tourist office.
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FRIEDRICHRODA