Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [242]
Travel to distant stars and planets in the Zeiss Planetarium ( 885 488; www.planetarium-jena.de; Am Planetarium 5; adult/concession admission €8/6.50, combination ticket with Optical Museum €11/9, laser show €9/7.50; hours vary), the world’s oldest public planetarium (1926). Its state-of-the-art dome projection system makes it a heavenly setting for cosmic laser shows paying tribute to music legends Pink Floyd and Queen.
Finally, for more on the history, the production and technology of glass, swing by the Schott Glasmuseum ( 681 1765; Otto-Schott-Strasse 13; admission free; 1-5pm Tue-Fri), a free interactive multimedia exhibition with audioguides in English.
Return to beginning of chapter
Festivals & Events
A great time to be in town is for Kulturarena Jena ( 498 060; www.kulturarena.com), an international music festival – with blues, rock, classical and jazz – that gets the town rocking in July and August.
Return to beginning of chapter
Sleeping
Alpha One Hostel Jena ( 597 897; www.hostel-jena.de, in German; Lassallestrasse 8; dm €15-17, s/d €25/40, linen €2.50, breakfast €3.50; ) Jena’s sparkling new indie hostel is in a quiet street, yet within staggering distance of the Wagnergasse pubs. The decent-sized rooms are splashed in bright colour; those on the third floor have great views and room 16 even has a balcony.
Ibis Hotel City am Holzmarkt ( 8130; www.ibishotel.com; Teichgraben 1; r from €59, breakfast €10; ) This chain contender has all the prerequisites to give you a good night’s sleep and puts you smack dab in the thick of things.
* * *
JENA FROM ABOVE
There’s plenty of hiking and biking around Jena, but, for a rewarding thigh burner, scoot up the 500 steps to the Landgrafenturm, an ancient tower on a hill north of town (approach via Philosophenweg). Called ‘Balcony of Jena’, this lofty perch treats you to a glorious panorama of the town and surroundings, high above the din of the city and practically at eye level with the top of the JenTower. There are benches for resting and a restaurant, the Landgrafen Jena ( 507 071; mains €10-18; 11am-11pm Wed-Sun), for refreshments or light seasonal dishes. Several trails radiate in all directions from up here as well. Less than 3.5km away, for instance, there’s the Papiermühle ( 459 80; Erfurter Strasse 102; mains €7-20, s/d €55/85; 11.30am-midnight), a charming brewery-pub and beer garden that’s a welcome refuelling stop; it even has a few rooms in case you feel like spending the night. Otherwise, it’s an easy ride on bus 16 back into town.
* * *
Gasthaus zur Noll ( 597 710; www.zur-noll.de; Oberlauengasse 19; s €60-70, d €70-90; ) You’ll find classic Thuringian hospitality galore in this historic charmer that gets rave reviews for its breakfast buffet bonanza. Rooms teeter between elegant and rustic and are endowed with all the expected modern trappings. For extra character and space, ask to stay in the wood-clad Bohlenstube. The restaurant-pub is perfect for sampling rustic fare, including a vampire-repelling garlic soup (mains €9 to €17).
Steigenberger Esplanade Jena ( 8000; www.jena.steigenberger.de; Carl-Zeiss-Platz 4; r €90-160, breakfast €16; ) With lots of light, glass and edgy design, Jena’s premier abode radiates urban poshness in its public areas and 179 rooms wrapped around a vertigo-inducing atrium. It’s inside the Goethe Galerie mall, so shopaholics won’t have to lug their bags very far.
Return to beginning of chapter
Eating & Drinking
There’s a supermarket in the basement of the Goethe Galerie.
Café Immergrün ( 447 313; Jener Gasse 6; mains €2-5; 11am-late) Sink deep into a plump sofa for intense tête-à-têtes or gather your posse in the leafy garden at