Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [251]
NEUES RATHAUS
The soot-blackened facade of the neo-Gothic Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall; Map) is festooned with gargoyles and statues, including a dragon scaling the turrets. Inside, six grand courtyards host festivals and concerts throughout the year. For a good view of the city, ascend the 85m tower (adult/concession €2/1; 10am-5pm Mon-Fri Nov-Apr, 10am-7pm May-Oct).
Huge crowds gather on Marienplatz to watch the Glockenspiel (carillon). Note the three levels: two portraying the Schäfflertanz (Click here) and another the Ritterturnier, a knights’ tournament held in 1568 to celebrate a royal marriage. The characters spring into action for a neck-stiffening 12 minutes at 11am and noon (also 5pm November to April). The night scene featuring the Münchener Kindl (a girl in a monk’s robe) and a Nachtwächter (nightwatchman) runs at 9pm.
ST PETERSKIRCHE
Opposite the Neues Rathaus stands the St Peterskirche (Church of St Peter; Map). Severely Gothic in inspiration, the baroque interior is a subdued affair compared to some, but does have a magnificent high altar and eye-catching statues of the four church fathers (1732) by Egid Quirin Asam. A clamber up the 297 steps of the rectangular 92m tower (adult/concession €1.50/1; 9am-5.30pm), also known as ‘Alter Peter’, is one for the vistaholics.
FISCHBRUNNEN
Local legend suggests that dipping an empty purse into the Fischbrunnen (Fish Fountain; Map) on Ash Wednesday guarantees it will always be full. Topped with a preposterously spherical carp, the fountain was used to keep river fish alive during medieval markets, and later as the ceremonial dunking spot for butchers’ apprentices.
ALTES RATHAUS
The Gothic Altes Rathaus (1474) was destroyed by lightning and bombs, and then rebuilt in a plainer style after WWII. In its south tower is the city’s Spielzeugmuseum (Toy Museum; Map; 294 001; Alter Rathausturm; adult/child/family €3/1.50/7; 10am-5.30pm) with a huge collection of toys, Barbie dolls and teddy bears.
Behind the Altes Rathaus, the Heiliggeistkirche (Church of the Holy Spirit; Map; Tal 77) was built in 1392. This oasis of city-centre peace and quiet is a riot of pink and beige rococo decoration, with amazing 18th-century frescoes by Cosmas Damian Asam.
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Viktualienmarkt & Around
The bustling Viktualienmarkt (Map) is one of Europe’s great food markets. In summer the entire place is transformed into one of the finest and most expensive beer gardens around, while in winter people huddle for warmth and schnapps in the small pubs around the square. The merchandise and food are of the finest quality, and prices tend to be high. The enormous maypole bears artisans’ symbols and the traditional blue-and-white Bavarian stripes. On the south side of the square you’ll see a statue of Karl Valentin, Germany’s most celebrated comedian.
The Schrannenhalle (Map), a reconstructed 19th-century grain hall, stands just off the southwest corner of the market. As well as housing several pricey Thai, Indian and Italian eateries, there’s also a stage for live bands and a beer bottle sculpture made entirely from bottle openers.
STADTMUSEUM
To mark the city’s 850th birthday in 2008, the Stadtmuseum (City Museum; Map; 2332 2370; St-Jakobs-Platz; adult/concession €4/2; 10am-6pm, closed Mon) restructured its collections to create the ‘Typisch München’ (Typically Munich) exhibition. This condenses Munich’s tangled past into five easily digestible periods, with a chronological walking route leading through the rambling building. Exhibits in each section represent what is most typical for the time, and explain why.
A separate exhibit, Nazionalsozialismus in München (National Socialism in Munich), explores the darker corners of the city’s role in Nazism after 1918. Set in a windowless hall among riveted steel plates, this