Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [254]
Neuhauser Strasse culminates in Karlsplatz, punctuated by the broken Gothic arch of the Karlstor (Map), the western gate and perimeter of the Altstadt, and an enormous modern fountain, a favourite meeting point. About 250m north of Karlsplatz stands another fountain, the bombastic Wittelsbacher Brunnen (Map) that gushes water from beneath some stern-looking mythical figures.
FRAUENKIRCHE
Visible from just about anywhere in the Altstadt, the twin copper onion domes of the Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady; Map) are often used as an emblem for the city. In contrast to its redbrick Gothic exterior, the interior is a soaring passage of light. The tomb of Ludwig the Bavarian, guarded by knights and noblemen, can be found in the choir. Near the door, look for the footprint cast in the pavement; according to legend, the devil lost a bet with the architect and stamped out in a huff. The 98m-tall south tower (adult/concession €3/1.50; 10am-5pm Mon-Sat Apr-Oct) affords excellent views – on clear days as far as the Alps.
ASAMKIRCHE
Near the Sendlinger Tor, a 14th-century gate, you’ll come upon the pint-sized St Johann Nepomuk church, better known as the Asamkirche (Map; Sendlinger Strasse 62). Designed and built in the 18th century as a private chapel by the prolific Asam brothers, who lived next door, the over-the-top baroque interior with not an inch of unembellished wall or column, must have been an awe-inspiring sight for 18th-century Müncheners, as it is today. The narrowness of the nave packed with barley-sugar columns, hovering cherubs and faux marble heightens the riotous effect.
More of the younger Asam’s masterful frescoes can be viewed in the riotously baroque Damenstiftskirche (Map; Damenstiftstrasse 1) just north of Sendlinger Strasse.
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Königsplatz & Around
Northwest of the Altstadt is Königsplatz (Map), a Greek Revivalist square created under King Ludwig I. It is anchored by the Doric-columned Propyläen gateway and orbited by three museums. A short walk to the north you’ll find the Kunstareal (literally ‘Art Area’), home to Munich’s three major art museums, the Pinakotheks (www.pinakothek.de). To get there, take the U2 or tram 27.
ALTE PINAKOTHEK
The Alte Pinakothek (Map; 2380 5216; Barer Strasse 27, enter from Theresienstrasse; adult/child €5.50/4, Sun €1; 10am-6pm, to 8pm Tue, closed Mon) is a veritable treasure trove of works by Old European Masters and an unmissable part of any visit to the city. Housed in a neoclassical temple built by King Ludwig I, it is one of the most important collections in the world.
Nearly all the paintings were collected or commissioned by Wittelsbach rulers over the centuries. The strongest section is Old German Masters: the four church fathers by Michael Pacher stands out, as does Lucas Cranach the Elder’s Crucifixion (1503), an emotional rendition of the suffering Jesus.
Albrecht Dürer receives special attention in the Dürersaal upstairs. His famous Christ-like Self-Portrait (about 1500), showing the gaze of an artist brimming with self-confidence hangs alongside his final major work, The Four Apostles.
There is a choice bunch of Old Dutch Masters, including an altarpiece by Rogier van der Weyden called The Adoration of the Magi, plus The Seven Joys of Mary by Hans Memling, Danae by Jan Gossaert and The Land of Cockayne by Pieter Bruegel the Elder.
Rubens fans have reason to rejoice. At 6m in height, his Large Last Judgement (1617) was so big that court architect Leo van Klenze had to design the hall around the canvas. Other Flemish 17th-century artists represented include Anthonis van Dyck and Rembrandt, with his intensely emotional Passion Cycle.
Free English-language audioguides with taped commentary about 90 works are available in