Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [257]
ARCHÔOLOGISCHE STAATSSAMMLUNG
Occupying a contender for the world’s ugliest museum building, the Archäologische Staats-sammlung (Map; 211 2402; Lerchenfeldstrasse 2; adult/concession €3/2, Sun €1; 9.30am-5pm, closed Mon) traces the settlement of Bavaria from the Stone Age to the early Middle Ages. The exhibition features objects from Celtic, Roman and Germanic civilisations, including the well-preserved body of a ritually sacrificed young girl.
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Olympiapark & Around
Almost four decades after the Olympic Games for which it was built, the Olympiapark (Map) is still an integral part of life in the city. The centrepieces are the 290m Olympiaturm, the massive undulating ‘tented’ roof covering the west side of the Olympic Stadium, the Olympic hall and swimming centre.
The best place to start is the Info Pavilion ( 3067 2414; www.olympiapark-muenchen.de; 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat) at the Olympia-Eissportzentrum (Ice-Skating Rink; open skating sessions 10am-noon & 1.30-4pm Mon-Fri, 8-10.30pm Wed-Sun). Here you can pick up maps, book tours and find out about events happening in the grounds.
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OKTOBERFEST
It all started as an elaborate wedding toast – and turned into the world’s biggest collective booze-up. In October 1810 the future king, Bavarian Crown Prince Ludwig I, married Princess Therese, and the newlyweds threw an enormous party at the city gates, complete with a horse race. The next year Ludwig’s fun-loving subjects came back for more. The festival was extended and, to fend off autumn, was moved forward to September. As the years drew on the racehorses were dropped and sometimes the party had to be cancelled, but the institution called Oktoberfest was here to stay.
Nearly two centuries later, this 16-day extravaganza draws over six million visitors a year to celebrate a marriage of good cheer and outright debauchery. A special beer is brewed for the occasion (Wies’nbier), which is dark and strong. Müncheners spend the day at the office in lederhosen and dirndl in order to hit the festival right after work. It is Bavaria’s largest tourist draw, generating about €1 billion in business. No admission is charged, but most of the fun costs something.
On the meadow called Theresienwiese (Wies’n for short), a temporary city is erected, consisting of beer tents, amusements and rides – just what drinkers need after several frothy ones! The action kicks off with the Brewer’s Parade at 11am on the first day of the festival. The parade begins at Sonnenstrasse and winds its way to the fairgrounds via Schwanthalerstrasse. At noon, the lord mayor stands before the thirsty crowds at Theresienwiese and, with due pomp, slams a wooden tap into a cask of beer. As the beer gushes out, the mayor exclaims, O’zapft ist’s! (It’s tapped!). The next day resembles the opening of the Olympics, as a young woman on horseback leads a parade of costumed participants from all over the world.
Hotels become booked out very quickly and prices skyrocket, so reserve accommodation as early as you can (like a year in advance). The festival is a 15-minute walk southwest of the Hauptbahnhof, and is served by its own U-Bahn station, Theresienwiese. Trams and buses have signs reading ‘Zur Festwiese’ (literally ‘to the Festival Meadow’).
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Wandering the grounds is free but you’ll have to pay to see inside the Olympiastadion (Olympic Stadium; adult/child €2/1; 9am-4.30pm Oct–mid-Apr, 8.30am-6pm mid-Apr–Sep, closed event days). There are several tours available, but most settle for the one-hour Stadium Tour (adult/concession €6/4; Apr-Nov), which visits the Olympic Stadium, VIP area and locker rooms, or the year-round, self-guided Audiowalk (per headphone set €7), which takes in all