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Hippocampus (Map; 475 855; Mühlbaurstrasse 5; mains €14-25) One of Munich’s top restaurants is this snazzy, upmarket Italian temple right near the Prinzregententheater, serving a pretentious range of Italian specials. It has a stylish, dark-wood interior, romantic ambience and wannabe clientele.

Also recommended:

Il Mulino (Map; 523 3335; Görrestrasse 1; mains €6-20) Classy neighbourhood eatery in Neuhausen, with an attractive ‘look-at-me’ decking area out front.

La Fiorentina (Map; 534 185; Goethestrasse 41; mains €6-17) Cosy hang-out with Tuscan country cooking and big-as-your-plate pizzas.

JEWISH

Einstein (Map; 202 400 332; St-Jakobs-Platz 18; mains €14-23; closed Sat) Reflected in the plate-glass windows of the Jewish Museum, this is the only kosher eatery in the city centre. The ID and bag search entry process is worth it for the restaurant’s uncluttered lines, smartly laid tables and soothing ambience.

KURDISH/TURKISH

Taverna Diyar (Map; 4895 0497; Wörthstrasse 10; mains €10-18) At its best when heaving with punters after 9pm on a Friday and Saturday, and just as the belly dancer gets into full wobble, this places cooks up authentic platters of fish, kebabs and grilled lamb with lots of Kurdish and Turkish zing. Try the Turkish wine if you dare.

LATIN AMERICAN

Joe Peña’s (Map; 226 463; Buttermelcherstrasse 17; mains €10-17) This festive cantina-style restaurant is considered Munich’s best Tex-Mex joint and can get very crowded, especially during happy hour (5pm to 8pm). The food’s tasty but calibrated to Central European tastes.

VEGETARIAN

Buxs (Map; 291 9550; Frauenstrasse 9; dishes per 100g €2.30; closed Sat evening & Sun; ) One of Munich’s few outposts of vegie culture, this light-filled self-service place serves 40-plus varieties of soups, salads and antipasti – there are also recipe books on sale so you can enjoy them at home.

Zerwirk (Map; 2323 9195; Ledererstrasse 3; mains €6-12.50; closed Sun; ) Through a twist of fate the Zerwirk, once a purveyor of wild game, now houses one of Munich’s few vegan restaurants. Dishes like pasta carbonara, tofu fennel or rucola chilli are served in elegant minimalist surrounds in the 2nd-floor dining rooms. Downstairs, the vaulted chambers are thrown open every weekend for club nights.

Prinz Myschkin (Map; 265 596; www.prinzmyshkin.com; Hackenstrasse 2; mains €10-16; closed Sun; ) Considered by many to be Munich’s best vegetarian restaurant, this spacious, trendy haunt has an impressive Italian- and Asian-influenced menu, including some macrobiotic choices. The menu is available in English.

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Cafes & Bistros

Trachtenvogl (Map; 201 5160; Reichenbachstrasse 47; snacks €3-8) A send-up of the Black Forest, complete with cuckoo clock and braying elk, this warped little cafe-lounge has good sandwiches, cakes, milkshakes and 30 different kinds of hot chocolate (cold if you like).

Café Rischart (Map; 231 7000; Marienplatz 18; dishes €4-8) Some of the best views of the Marienplatz combine with Munich’s finest cakes and pastries at this city institution. Plan your sightseeing assault on the city over a delicious breakfast.

Isarpost (Map; 4111 8046; Sonnenstrasse 24-26; mains €5-8) Housed in the grand, mid-18th-century building of the former postal office, this foyer cafe is Munich’s newest see-and-be-seen venue. Choose from the Italian menu, or just unwind with a macchiato under the stylishly high, light-flooded vaulting.

Creperie Bernard Bernard (Map; 480 1173; Innere-Wiener-Strasse 32; crepes €5-9; dinner Mon-Sat) The best crepes in town can be found at this small Parisian place that serves up delicious savouries oozing goat’s cheese or shrimp, various fruit-filled galettes and even snails if that’s your sort of thing.

Café Voilà (Map; 489 1654; Wörthstrasse 5; mains €5-10) High stucco ceilings, giant mirrors and large windows make this cafe a great place for watching the world go by. It’s buzzing for breakfast (€4.50 to €10) and later in the day for fairly priced