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MUSEUM IM KULTURSPEICHER

In a born-again historic granary right on the Main River you’ll find the Museum im Kulturspeicher ( 322 250; Veitshöchheimer Strasse 5; adult/concession €3.50/2; 1-6pm Tue, 11am-6pm Wed, 11am-7pm Thu, 11am-6pm Fri-Sun). This fascinating museum has choice artworks from the 19th to the 21st centuries, with an emphasis on German Impressionism, neo-realism and contemporary art. It also houses the post-1945 constructivist works of the Peter C Ruppert Collection, a challenging assembly of computer art, sculpture, paintings and photographs.

RÖNTGEN GEDÄCHTNISSTÄTTE

Würzburg’s most famous modern scion is Wilhelm Conrad Röntgen, discoverer of the X-ray. The Röntgen Gedächtnisstätte (Röntgen Museum; 351 1103; Röntgenring 8; admission free; 8am-4pm Mon-Thu, 8am-3pm Fri) is a tribute to his life and work.

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Tours

Schiffstouristik Kurth & Schiebe ( 585 73; www.schiffstouristik.de; €9) offers quick river cruises (40 minutes) to the wine-growing town of Veitshöchheim.

The tourist office runs 1½-hour English-language guided tours (adult/child €6/4; 1pm Fri & Sat May-Oct) departing from the Falkenhaus. You can also borrow an audioguide with a recorded tour (€5) of all the major sights.

Würzburg is the centre of the Franconian wine industry, and you can sample some of the region’s finest vintages on tours of these historic wine cellars (reservations are advised):

Bürgerspital Weingut ( 350 3403; Theaterstrasse 19; tours €6; tours 2pm Sat Mar-Oct) At the Bürgerspital Weinstuben; includes a small bottle of wine.

Weingut Juliusspital ( 393 1400; Juliuspromenade 19; tours €6-10; tours in German 5pm Fri & Sat Apr-Dec) In the splendid complex with the Juliusspital wine bar.

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Festivals & Events

Africa-Festival Europe’s biggest festival of black music (tickets from the tourist office), held in late May and/or early June.

Hoffest am Stein Wine and music festival held in mid-July at the Weingut am Stein ( 258 08), 10 minutes’ walk north of the Hauptbahnhof.

Mozart Festival ( tickets 372 336) Germany’s oldest Mozart festival takes place at the Residenz in late May/early June.

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Sleeping

Achieving REM sleep in Würzburg comes slightly cheaper than in other Bavarian cities.

BUDGET

Camping Kanu Club ( 725 36; Mergentheimer Strasse 13b; per person/tent €3/2.50) The closest camp site to the town centre. Take tram 3 or 5 to the Judenbühlweg stop, which is on its doorstep.

Babelfish ( 304 0430; www.babelfish-hostel.de; Haugerring 2; dm €16-20, s/d €40/58; ) Recently moved to flashy premises opposite the train station, the spanking new Babelfish has 74 beds spread over two floors, a sunny rooftop terrace, 24-hour reception, wheelchair-friendly facilities and little extras like card keys and a laundry room. The name comes from a creature in Douglas Adams’ novel The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy.

DJH hostel ( 425 90; www.wuerzburg.jugendherberge.de; Burkarderstrasse 46; dm under/over 27yr €21.60/25.60) At the foot of the fortress, this well-equipped, wheelchair-friendly hostel has room for 238 snoozers in three- to eight-bed dorms. Take tram 3 or 5 to Sanderring, then it’s a five-minute walk north along the river.

Pension Spehnkuch ( 547 52; www.pension-spehnkuch.de; Röntgenring 7; s €31-33, d €56-62, tr €78-81; ) More like a home stay with a German family than a Pension, this delightful apartment guesthouse has cosy rooms, a sunny breakfast parlour and a genuinely friendly welcome. Bathrooms are shared.

MIDRANGE & TOP END

Hotel Dortmunder Hof ( 561 63; www.dortmunder-hof.de; Innerer Graben 22; s €42-65, d €76-100; ) In a handy position two blocks from the Markt, this bike-friendly hotel occupies a brightly renovated building with spotless, en suite rooms including cable TV. Parking can be arranged close by, and there’s live music in the cellar bar.

Hotel zum Winzermännle ( 541 56; www.winzermaennle.de; Domstrasse 32; s €62-75,