Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [286]
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Orientation
The Hauptbahnhof is a 10-minute walk east of the Altstadt along Ansbacher Strasse. The main shopping drag is Schmiedgasse, which runs south to Plönlein, a scenic fork in the road anchored by a half-timbered ochre cottage and gurgling fountain that’s become Rothenburg’s unofficial emblem.
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Information
Dresdner Bank (Galgengasse 23)
Interplay ( 935 599; Milchmarkt 3; per hr €3; 8am-1am) Internet access.
Post office Altstadt (Rödergasse 11); Bahnhof (Zentro mall, Bahnhofstrasse 15)
Tourist office ( 404 800; www.rothenburg.de; Marktplatz 2; 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun May-Oct, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat Nov-Apr) Out-of-hours electronic room-booking board in the foyer, plus free internet.
Volksbank (Marktplatz) To the right of the tourist office.
Wäscherei Then ( 2775; Johannitergasse 9; per load €3.50) Laundry.
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Sights
The Rathaus on the Markt was begun in Gothic style in the 14th century, and completed during the Renaissance. Climb the 220 steps to the viewing platform of the Rathausturm (adult/concession €2/0.50; 9.30am-12.30pm & 1-5pm Apr-Oct & Dec, noon-3pm Nov & Jan-Mar) to be rewarded with widescreen views of the Tauber.
North of the Marktplatz, the recently sandblasted Jakobskirche (Klingengasse 1; adult/concession €2/0.50, during services free; 9am-5.15pm Apr-Oct, 10am-noon & 2-4pm Nov & Jan-Mar, 10am-4.45pm Dec) is Rothenburg’s major place of pilgrimage. The main draw is the carved Heilig Blut Altar (Holy Blood Altar), set on a raised platform at the western end of the nave. It depicts the Last Supper with Judas, unusually, at the centre, receiving bread from Christ. The rock crystal inside is said to contain a drop of Christ’s blood.
Brutal implements of torture and punishment from medieval times are on display at the curiously fascinating Mittelalterliches Kriminalmuseum (Medieval Crime Museum; 5359; Burggasse 3; adult/concession €3.80/2.20; 11am-5pm Apr, 10am-6pm May-Oct, 2-4pm Nov, Jan & Feb, 1-4pm Dec). Displays include chastity belts, masks of disgrace for gossips, a cage for errant bakers, a neck brace for quarrelsome women and a beer-barrel pen for drunks. Visitors gain gruesome amusement from having their photo taken in the stocks outside.
Another popular activity is the 2.5km circular walk around the unbroken ring of the town walls. There are good views from the eastern tower, the Röderturm (Rödergasse; adult/child €1.50/1; 9am-5pm), though it’s staffed by volunteers and often closed. For the most impressive views, though, go to the west side of town, where a sweeping view of the Tauber Valley includes the Doppelbrücke, a double-decker bridge. Also visible is the head of a trail that leads down the valley and over to the lovely Romanesque St-Peter-und-Pauls-Kirche ( 5524; Detwang; adult/child €1/0.50; 8.30am-noon & 1.30-5pm Apr-Oct, 10am-noon & 2-4pm Nov-Mar, closed Mon) which contains a stunning Riemenschneider altar. There’s a beer garden (Unter den Linden) about halfway along the trail.
The city’s showcase of local art, culture and history is the Reichsstadtmuseum (Imperial City Museum; 939 043; Klosterhof 5; adult/child €3.50/2; 9.30am-5.30pm Apr-Oct, 1-4pm Nov-Mar), which is housed in a former convent. Highlights include the superb Rothenburger Passion (1494) by Martinus Schwarz, and the convent rooms themselves, including a 14th-century kitchen. The gardens are ideal for a quiet stroll.
The Alt-Rothenburger Handwerkerhaus ( 5810; Alter Stadtgraben 26; adult/child €2.50/1; 11am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun Apr-Oct, 2-4pm daily Dec) reconstructs the working and social life of Rothenburg’s medieval citizens. For the nostalgic, the Puppen-und Spielzeugmuseum (Doll & Toy Museum; 7330;