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is also one of Germany’s oldest, founded by the stepchildren of Roman emperor Augustus over 2000 years ago. As an independent city state from the 13th century, Augsburg was free to raise its own taxes. Public coffers bulged on the proceeds of the textile trade, and banking families such as the Fuggers and the Welsers even lent money to kings and countries. However, from the 16th century religious strife and economic decline plagued the city. Augsburg finally joined the Kingdom of Bavaria in 1806.

Today this attractive city of spires and cobbles is an easy day trip from Munich or an engaging stop on the Romantic Road. It’s also an alternative accommodation option during the Oktoberfest, though this secret got out long ago.

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Orientation

The Hauptbahnhof is at the western end of Bahnhofstrasse, which runs into Fuggerstrasse at Königsplatz, the city’s main bus transfer point. The heart of the Altstadt is Rathausplatz, reached on foot from Königsplatz up Annastrasse.

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Information

Buchhandlung Rieger & Kranzfelder ( 517 880; Maximilianstrasse 36, Fugger Stadtpalast) Guides, maps and two shelves of English-language titles.

Fernweh ( 155 035; Dominikanergasse 10) STA Travel representative.

Internetcafé ( 319 5665; Bahnhofstrasse 29; per hr €2; 9am-10pm Mon-Sat, 11am-10pm Sun) Virtually Augsburg’s only surviving internet cafe.

Post office (Hauptbahnhof)

Tourist office ( 502 070; www.augsburg-tourismus.de; Rathausplatz; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Apr-Oct, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Nov-Mar)

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Sights

RATHAUSPLATZ

This square at the city’s heart is dominated by the twin onion-dome spires of the Renaissance Rathaus (1615–20). Its roof is crowned by a 4m pine cone, Augsburg’s emblem and an ancient fertility symbol. Inside, the star attraction is the meticulously restored Goldener Saal (Golden Hall; 349 6398; Rathausplatz; admission €2; 10am-6pm), the main meeting hall. It’s a dazzling space canopied by a gilded and coffered ceiling, interspersed with frescoes.

For widescreen city views, climb the Perlachturm (Perlach Tower; Rathausplatz; adult/concession €1/0.50; 10am-6pm Apr-Nov, 2-6pm Fri-Sun Dec) next door to the Rathaus.

DOM MARIÄ HEIMSUCHUNG

North of Rathausplatz you’ll find the cathedral, Dom Mariä Heimsuchung (Hoher Weg), which dates back to the 10th century. Architecturally it’s a hotchpotch of addition on addition, including the instalment of bronze doors in the 14th century depicting Old Testament scenes. The oldest section is the crypt underneath the west choir, which features a Romanesque Madonna. Other treasures include medieval frescoes, the Weingartner Altar by Hans Holbein the Elder, and – dating from the 12th century – the Prophets’ Windows (depicting Daniel, Jonah, Hosea and Moses), some of the oldest stained-glass windows in Germany.

ST ANNA KIRCHE

Often regarded as the first Renaissance church in Germany, the rather plain-looking St Anna Kirche (Church of St Anna; Im Annahof 2) contains a bevy of treasures as well as the sumptuous Fuggerkapelle, where Jacob Fugger and his brothers lie buried, and the lavishly frescoed Goldschmiedekapelle (Goldsmiths’ Chapel; 1420). The church played an important role during the Reformation. In 1518 Martin Luther, in town to defend his beliefs before the papal legate, stayed at what was then a Carmelite monastery. His rooms have been turned into the Lutherstiege, a small museum about the Reformation. The entire complex was under renovation at the time of writing.

FUGGEREI

Built to provide homes for poor Catholics, the Fuggerei ( 319 8810; adult/child €4/2; 8am-8pm Apr-Oct, 9am-6pm Nov-Mar) is one of the oldest welfare settlements in the world. Jacob Fugger financed the project in the 16th century and this town within a town is still home to 150 Catholic Augsburgers. Many of the 140 apartments have been modernised but the exterior is pretty much unchanged, with the original bell pulls beside each door. For centuries the rent has remained at one Rhenish