Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [295]
Schloss Neuschwanstein
Appearing through the mountaintops like a misty mirage is the world’s most famous castle, and the model for Disney’s citadel, Schloss Neuschwanstein ( 930 830; adult/concession €9/8, with Hohenschwangau €17/15; 8am-5pm Apr-Sep, 9am-3pm Oct-Mar).
Ludwig planned this castle himself, with the help of a stage designer rather than an architect, and it provides a fascinating glimpse into the king’s state of mind. Built as a romantic medieval castle, it was started in 1869 and, like so many of Ludwig’s grand schemes, was never finished. For all the money spent on it, the king spent just over 170 days in residence.
Ludwig imagined his palace as a giant stage to recreate the world of Germanic mythology in the operatic works of Richard Wagner. Its centrepiece is the lavish Sängersaal (Minstrels’ Hall), created to feed the king’s obsession with Wagner and medieval knights. Wall frescoes in the hall depict scenes from the opera Tannhäuser. Concerts are held here every September.
Other completed sections include Ludwig’s Tristan and Isolde–themed bedroom, dominated by a huge Gothic-style bed crowned with intricately carved spires; a gaudy artificial grotto (another nod to Tannhäuser); and the Byzantine Thronsaal (Throne Room) with an incredible mosaic floor containing over two million stones. Almost every window provides tour-halting views across the plain below.
New features at the end of the tour include a 20-minute film on the castle and its creator, a reasonably priced cafe and the inevitable gift shops.
For the postcard view of Neuschwanstein and the plains beyond, walk 10 minutes up to Marienbrücke (Mary’s Bridge), which spans the spectacular Pöllat Gorge over a waterfall just above the castle. It’s said Ludwig liked to come here after dark to watch the candlelight radiating from the Sängersaal.
Tickets & Tours
Both castles must be seen on guided tours (in German or English), which last about 35 minutes (Hohenschwangau is usually first). Timed tickets are only available from the Ticket Centre ( 930 830; www.ticket-center-hohenschwangau.de; Alpenseestrasse 12) at the foot of the castles. In summer come as early as 8am to ensure you get in that day.
When visiting both castles, enough time is left between tours for the steep 30- to 40-minute walk between the castles. Alternatively, you can shell out €4 for a horse-drawn carriage ride, which is only marginally quicker.
All Munich’s tour companies Click here run day excursions out to the castles.
ALTSTADT FÜSSEN
Füssen’s compact historical centre is a tangle of lanes lorded over by the Hohe Schloss, a late-Gothic confection and one-time retreat of the bishops of Augsburg. The inner courtyard is a masterpiece of illusionary architecture dating back to 1499; you’ll do a double take before realising that the gables, oriels and windows are not quite as they seem. The north wing of the palace contains the Staatsgalerie im Hohen Schloss ( 940 162; Magnusplatz 10; adult/concession €2.50/2, with Städtische Gemäldegalerie €3) with regional paintings and sculpture from the 15th and 16th centuries. The Städtische Gemäldegalerie (City Paintings Gallery) below is a showcase of 19th-century artists.
Below the Hohen Schloss, and integrated into the former Abbey of St Mang, is the Museum Füssen ( 903 146; Lechhalde 3; adult/child under 14yr €2.50/free; 11am-5pm Apr-Oct, 1-4pm Nov-Mar, closed Mon). Füssen’s heyday as a 16th-century violin-making centre is recalled here, and you can view the abbey’s festive baroque rooms, Romanesque cloister and the St Anna Kapelle (AD 830).
TEGELBERGBAHN
For fabulous views of the Alps and the Forggensee, take this cable car ( 983 60; www.tegelbergbahn.de; one-way/return €10/17; 8.30am-5pm Jul-Oct, 9am-5pm Nov-Jun) to the top of the Tegelberg (1707m), a prime launch point for hang-gliders and parasailers. From here it’s a wonderful