Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [299]
Cross-country ski trails run along the main valleys, including a long section from Garmisch to Mittenwald; call 797 979 for a weather or snow report.
For ski hire and courses try the following:
Skischule ( 4931; www.skischule-gap.de; Am Hausberg 4)
Sport Total ( 1425; www.agentursporttotal.de; Marienplatz 18) Also organises paragliding, mountain biking, rafting and ballooning.
HIKING
The area around Garmisch-Partenkirchen is prime hiking and mountaineering territory. Mountain guides are at the tourist office on Monday and Thursday between 4pm and 6pm to give help and information to anyone heading into the Alps. Brochures and maps are also available with route suggestions for all levels.
Hiking to the Zugspitze summit is only possible in summer and is only recommended for those with experience of mountaineering. Another popular route is to King Ludwig II’s hunting lodge, Jagdschloss Schachen ( 920 30; adult/concession €4/3; Jun-Oct), which can be reached via the Partnachklamm (below) in about a four-hour hike. A plain wooden hut from the outside, the interior is surprisingly magnificent; the Moorish Room is something straight out of the Arabian Nights.
For guided hikes and courses contact the following:
Bergsteigerschule Zugspitze ( 589 99; www.bergsteigerschule-zugspitze.de; Dreitorspitzstrasse 74)
Deutscher Alpenverein ( 2701; www.alpenverein-ga-pa.de; Hindenburgstrasse 38)
PARTNACHKLAMM
One of the area’s main attractions is the dramatically beautiful Partnachklamm ( 3167; adult/child €2/1), a narrow 700m-long gorge with walls rising up to 80m. A circular walk hewn from the rock takes you through the gorge, which is spectacular in winter when you can walk beneath curtains of icicles and frozen waterfalls.
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Sleeping
The tourist office has a 24-hour outdoor room-reservation board.
Hostel 2962 ( 957 50; www.hostel2962.com; Partnachauenstrasse 3; dm from €15, d from €58; ) Relaunched in 2008 as a hostel, this is still essentially a typical Garmisch hotel (former Hotel Schell), but a good choice nonetheless. If you can get into the four-bed dorm, it’s the cheapest sleep in town. Breakfast is an extra €5.
DJH hostel ( 967 050; www.garmisch.jugendherberge.de; Jochstrasse 10; dm under/over 27yr €22.80/26.80; ) The standards at this smartly revamped hostel are as good at some chain hotels. Rooms have Ikea-style furnishings and fruity colour schemes, and there are indoor and outdoor climbing walls if the Alps are not enough.
Gasthof zum Rassen ( 2089; www.gasthof-rassen.de; Ludwigstrasse 45; s €32-53, d €52-90; ) In this beautifully frescoed 14th-century building, the bright, contemporary rooms provide a contrast with the trad style of the public areas. The massive event hall, formerly a brewery, houses the oldest folk theatre in Bavaria.
Hotel Garmischer Hof ( 9110; www.garmischer-hof.de; Chamonixstrasse 10; s €59-94, d €94-136; ) Generations of athletes, artists and outdoor enthusiasts have stayed at this refined chateau, property of the Seiwald family since 1928. Tasteful and cosy are the rooms, many with incredible Alpine views. All of them have cable TV, direct-dial phones and safes. Breakfast is served in the vaulted cafe-restaurant with a garden terrace.
Reindl’s Partenkirchner Hof ( 943 870; www.reindls.de; Bahnhofstrasse 15; s €75-150, d €140-200, ste €210-600; ) It doesn’t get much better than this: an elegant, three-winged luxury hotel stacked with perks, a wine bar and a top-notch gourmet restaurant. Rooms are studies in folk-themed elegance and some enjoy gobsmacking mountain views. Most celebrities visiting Ga-Pa pitch up here.
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Eating
Colosseo ( 528 09; Klammstrasse 7; mains €5-20; closed Mon) The faux Roman sculptures, chirpy waiters and mountain views make this upstairs pizzeria a sure winner. The menu is principally pasta-pizza, but there are also delicious fish and meat dishes to choose from.
Bräustüberl ( 2312; Fürstenstrasse 23; mains €6-16)