Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [337]
DREIFLUSSECK
The very nib end of the Altstadt peninsula, the point where the rivers meet, is known as the Dreiflusseck (Three River Corner). From the north the little Ilz sluices brackish water down from the Bavarian forest, which meets the murky brown Danube as it flows from the west and the pale jade of the Inn from the south, forming an odd murky tricolour. The effect is best observed from the ramparts of the Veste Oberhaus.
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Activities
From March to early November, Wurm + Köck ( 929 292; www.donauschiffahrt.de; Höllgasse 26; adult/child 45min €7.80/3.90, 2hr €11.50/free) operate cruises to the Dreiflusseck from the docks near Rathausplatz, as well as a whole host of other sailings to places along the Danube. The four-hour evening cruise (per person €30.50; 7pm Apr-Oct) with live music and three-course dinner is a romantic experience.
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Sleeping
Zeltplatz Ilzstadt ( 414 57; Halser Strasse 34; adult/child €8/6.50) This tent-only camping ground has an idyllic spot on the Ilz, about a 15-minute walk from the Altstadt. Catch bus 1, 2 or 4 to Ilzbrücke.
DJH hostel ( 493 780; www.passau.jugendherberge.de; Veste Oberhaus 125; dm under/over 27yr €17.90/21.90) This beautifully renovated 132-bed hostel is right in the fortress.
Pension Rössner ( 931 350; www.pension-roessner.de; Bräugasse 19; s/d €35/60; ) The price-to-quality ratio is high at this immaculate Pension in a restored mansion on the eastern tip of the Altstadt. Each room is uniquely decorated and many also have fortress views. Breakfast is a silly €7 extra.
Hotel Wilder Mann ( 350 71; www.wilder-mann.com; Am Rathausplatz; s €50-60, d €80-140; ) Royalty and celebrities, from Empress Elizabeth of Austria to Mikhail Gorbachev and Henry Kissinger, have stayed at this historic inn. Rooms seek to recapture a lost grandeur, and some of the carved bedsteads are very grand indeed. The glorious Ludwig II and Empress Elizabeth suites cost from €200 a night if you’re feeling flush.
Hotel König ( 3850; www.hotel-koenig.de; Untere Donaulände 1; s €65-100, d €89-140; ) Spacious modern rooms, great views over the river and a good central location make this riverside property an excellent choice. The hotel also has a good restaurant with a beautiful dining terrace. There is wheelchair access.
Other recommendations:
Das Grüne Haus ( 211 8565; www.bettundbike-passau.de; Angerstrasse 39; dm/d €24/48; ) Bike-friendly hotel-cum-hostel on the north bank of the Danube.
Hotel Schloss Ort ( 340 72; www.schlosshotel-passau.de; Im Ort 11; s €68-88, d €97-136; ) Snug medieval palace housing a stylish hotel a hop from the Dreiflusseck.
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Eating & Drinking
Diwan ( 490 3280; top fl, Stadtturm, Niebelungenplatz 1; mains €3-7) Climb aboard the high-speed lift from street level to this trendy, high-perched cafe-lounge with by far the best views in town. From the tangled rattan and plush cappuccino-culture sofas you can see it all – the Dom, the rivers, the fortress – while you tuck into the offerings of the changing seasonal menu.
Zi’Teresa Pizzeria ( 2138; Theresienstrasse 26; meals €5.60-20) Theresienstrasse and its side streets are lined with cafes and restaurants and popular places to just hang out, such as Zi’Teresa. This lively, always-bustling Italian eatery attracts young and old to munch on generously topped pizzas and superb pastas.
Café Kowalski ( 2487; Oberer Sand 1; dishes €6-11) Chat flows as freely as wine or beer at this gregarious cafe, a kicker of a nightspot. The giant burgers, Schnitzels and salads are best sampled on the terrace overlooking the Ilz.
Andorfer Weissbräu ( 754 444; Rennweg 2; mains €6-13) High on a hill 1.5km north of the Altstadt, this rural beer garden attached to the Andorfer brewery serves filling Bavarian favourites, but