Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [340]
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Activities
Two long-distance hiking routes cut through the Bavarian Forest: the European Distance Trails E6 (Baltic Sea to the Adriatic) and E8 (North Sea to Carpathia). There are mountain huts all along the way. Another popular hiking trail is the Gläserne Steig (Glass Trail) from Lam to Grafenau. Whatever route you’re planning, maps produced by Kompass – sheets 185, 195 and 197 (€6 to €7.50) – are invaluable companions. They are available from tourist offices and the park visitor centre.
The Bavarian Forest has seven ski areas, but downhill skiing is low-key, even though the area’s highest mountain, the Grosser Arber (1456m), occasionally hosts European and World Cup ski races. The best resorts are in the north, such as Bischofsmais near the Geisskopf (1097m), Bodenmais near the Grosser Arber, and Neukirchen near the Hoher Bogen (1079m). The major draw here is cross-country skiing, with 2000km of prepared routes through the ranges.
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Sleeping
Accommodation in this region is a real bargain; Zwiesel and Grafenau have the best choices.
Azur-Ferienpark Bayerischer Wald ( 09922-802 595; www.azur-camping.de; Waldesruhweg 34, Zwiesel; per person €6-7.50, tent €4-5.50) About 500m north of the Hauptbahnhof, near public pools and sports facilities.
Rachelblick ( 08553-1289; Klingenbrunn Bahnhof 9, Klingenbrunn; s/d €17.50/35; ) Situated in the tiny forest hamlet of Klingenbrunn Bahnhof, but just 100m from a halt on the Waldbahn, this cosy family-run guesthouse is an ideal rural escape. Rooms are standard guesthouse issue but have en-suite bathrooms and pretty forest views. It’s a great base for hiking or skiing the countless trails that criss-cross the forest.
DJH hostel ( 08553-6000; www.waldhaeuser.jugendherberge.de; Herbergsweg 2, Neuschönau; dm under/over 27yr €20.20/24.20) The only hostel right in the national park and an ideal base for hikers.
Hotel-Gasthaus Zum Kellermann ( 08552-967 10; www.hotel-zum-kellermann.de; Stadtplatz 8, Grafenau; s/d €37/60; closed Wed; ) Fresh and airy rooms at very reasonable rates make this simple Grafenau guesthouse a good bet. There’s a pretty terrace area outside and the restaurant (mains €6 to €12) supplies yummy local fare.
Hotel Hubertus ( 08552-964 90; www.hubertus-grafenau.de; Grüb 20, Grafenau; s €47-58, d €78-104; ) This elegant hotel in Grafenau offers incredible value for the weary traveller. The stylish rooms are spacious and most have balconies. Guests are treated to a pool and sauna, and delicious buffet meals.
Hotel Zur Waldbahn ( 09922-8570; www.zurwaldbahn.de; Bahnhofplatz 2, Zwiesel; s €55-62, d €88-96; ) Tradition and modern comforts blend seamlessly at this friendly inn, conveniently located opposite the Hauptbahnhof. The warm, wood-panelled rooms are tastefully furnished, the restaurant is top-notch, and just check out that pool.
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Eating
Weinanger ( 09922-869 690; Angerstrasse 37, Zwiesel; mains €6-11; 7pm-1am Wed-Sat) If your stomach craves a lighter dinner, try this cheerful wine bistro with brick walls and polished wooden tables. French onion soup, cheeses and baguette sandwiches all feature on the menu, and some Fridays there’s live jazz.
Dampfbräu ( 09922-605 30; Stadtplatz 6, Zwiesel; mains €8-15) Rustic hearts cut out of the chunky timber backrests, murals illustrating local industries, simple belly-fillers caught and picked in the surrounding forests and tankards of locally brewed ale make this the most characterful tavern eatery in town. The wild boar goulash in a dark beer sauce, is the best of the Bavarian Forest on a plate.
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Getting There & Around
From Munich, Regensburg or Passau, Zwiesel is reached by rail via Plattling; most trains continue to Bayerisch Eisenstein on the Czech border, with connections to Prague. The scenic Waldbahn shuttles directly between Zwiesel