Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [359]
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Sights & Activities
Mannheim’s trophy sight is the lemon-and-red sandstone Schloss ( 655 718; www.schloss-mannheim.de; Bismarckstrasse; adult/concession/family incl audioguide €5/2.50/12.50; 10am-5pm Tue-Sun), Germany’s largest baroque palace. Soon after completion in 1760, Elector Karl Theodor moved his court to Munich. The recently restored state rooms are a baroque-gone-mad feast of stucco, marble, porcelain and chandeliers. Mythological gods dance across the walls of the frilly rococo Kabinettsbibliothek (library), while gilt-framed ancestors keep a beady eye on the Rittersaal (Hall of Knights).
While you’re in a baroque mood, make for the lavishly frescoed Jesuitenkirche (www.jesuitenkirchemannheim.de, in German; A4, 2; 9am-7pm).
Rising gracefully above Friedrichsplatz, five blocks northeast of the Hauptbahnhof, is the 60m-high, late-19th-century Wasserturm (Water Tower), framed by manicured lawns with two art-nouveau fountains. A handsome ensemble of red sandstone edifices, many with arcades, lines the perimeter.
On Friedrichsplatz’ southern side is the acclaimed Kunsthalle ( 293 6430; www.kunsthalle-mannheim.de, in German; Friedrichsplatz 4; adult/concession/family €7/5/10; 11am-6pm Tue-Sun), a vast repository of modern and contemporary art by masters such as Cézanne, Degas Manet, Kandinsky and Rodin. The permanent collection is sometimes stored away to make space for blockbuster exhibitions.
Stepping northeast of Friedrichsplatz, the neobaroque Christuskirche (Werderplatz), topped by a green dome, has a distinctive outline and is exactly 5m higher than the Wasserturm.
When the sun shines, locals flop on the banks of the Neckar in the Luisenpark (adult/concession €5/3.50; 9am-dusk), a green spine taking in hothouses, gardens, a butterfly hall, an aquarium and a Chinese teahouse. A revolving restaurant is skewered to the 212m-high spike of the Fernmeldeturm (telecommunications tower; 419 290; Hans Reschke Ufer; adult/concession €4/3; 10am-11pm). Take tram 5 to get there.
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Sleeping
Mannheim has stacks of corporate hotels but characterful pickings remain slim.
DJH hostel ( 822 718; www.jugendherberge-mannheim.de; Rheinpromenade 21; dm 1st/subsequent night €17.90/14.80; reception 2.30-10pm; ) In Schlosspark’s green heart, this attractive hostel is a 10-minute walk south of the Hauptbahnhof.
Arabella Pension Garni ( 230 50; www.pension-arabella-mannheim.de, in German; M2, 12; s €28-37.50, d €46-59) Super-centrally located two blocks north of the Schloss, Arabella has 18 bright, spacious rooms with shared bathrooms. Prices don’t include breakfast.
Maritim Parkhotel ( 158 80; www.maritim.de; Friedrichsplatz 2; s €100-€251, d €115-283; ) Venetian crystal, Carrara marble and liveried bellboys – no expense has been spared in the palatial trappings of this art-nouveau pile. Elegant rooms, a swimming pool and live lobby music in the evenings are luxuries that come with the price tag. Prices don’t include breakfast.
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Eating & Drinking
The Marktplatz is flanked by shwarma joints and cafes with alfresco seating.
Taksim ( 279 39; H3, 21; sweets & snacks €1-2; 8am-9am) There’s often a snaking queue for the goodies at this Turkish patisserie. Wait your turn for spinach-cheese gözleme cooked fresh in front of you, savoury pides and sticky baklava.
Café Prag ( 178 7724; E4, 17; cake €3.50; 10am-6pm Mon, 10am-8pm Tue-Sat, 1-6pm Sun) In former lives a tailor’s shop and cigar store, Jugendstil Café Prag is now an arty cafe with cranberry-red walls and a boho feel. The jazz is as smooth as the espresso and as sweet as the legendary rhubarb cake and raspberry tart. A Mannheim must.
Gasthaus Zentrale ( 202 43; N4, 15; daily specials €4.50-7, mains €6.30-16.40; 9.30am-1am) Once a student dive, this rustic gastro pub rustles up decent pizza and steaks, and has a warm-weather beer garden. It’s three blocks east of Paradeplatz.
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Entertainment