Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [361]
A line of 1645 blue majolica tiles, called the Blaue Linie, connects the Schloss to the Museum in der Majolika ( 926 6583; Ahaweg 6; adult/concession €2/1; 10am-1pm & 2-5pm Tue-Sun), exhibiting glazed ceramics made in Karlsruhe since 1901.
At the northern tip of Marktplatz, Museum beim Markt ( 926 6578; Karl-Friedrich-Strasse 6; adult/concession €2/1; 11am-5pm Tue-Thu, 10am-6pm Fri-Sun, after 2pm Fri free) presents an intriguing stash of post-1900 applied arts, from art nouveau to Bauhaus.
The grand neoclassical Marktplatz is dominated by the Ionic portico of the 19th-century Evangelische Stadtkirche and the dusky-pink Rathaus. The iconic red-stone pyramid is an incongruous tribute to Karl Wilhelm Margrave of Baden-Durlach and marks his tomb.
STAATLICHE KUNSTHALLE
The outstanding State Art Gallery ( 926 3359; www.kunsthalle-karlsruhe.de, in German; Hans-Thoma-Strasse 2-6; adult/student €6/4; 10am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun), southwest of the Schloss, harbours a first-class collection; from the canvases of late-Gothic German masters like Matthias Grünewald and Lucas Cranach the Elder to the impressionistic flights of fancy of Degas, Monet and Renoir. Step across to the Orangerie to view Kandinsky’s colour-charged works and Max Ernst’s surrealist fantasies.
ZENTRUM FÜR KUNST UND MEDIENTECHNOLOGIE
Set in a historic munitions factory, the ZKM (Media & Art Centre; 810 00; www.zkm.de; Lorenzstrasse 19; 10am-6pm Wed-Fri, 11am-6pm Sat & Sun) is a mammoth exhibition and research complex fusing art and emerging electronic media technologies.
The interactive Medienmuseum (Media Museum; adult/7-17yr/concession €5/2/3, after 2pm Fri free) has media art displays including a computer-generated ‘legible city’ and real-time bubble simulations. The Museum für Neue Kunst (Museum for Contemporary Art; adult/7-17yr/concession €5/2/3, incl the Medienmuseum €8/3/5, after 2pm Fri free) hosts first-rate temporary exhibitions of post-1960 art.
Next to the ZKM, the Städtische Galerie ( 133 4401; www.staedtische-galerie.de, in German; Lorenzstrasse 27; adult/concession €2.60/1.80; 10am-6pm Wed-Fri, 11am-6pm Sat & Sun) zooms in on local and postwar German art.
Served by tram 2, the ZKM is 2km southwest of the Schloss and a similar distance northwest of the Hauptbahnhof.
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Sleeping
Mainly geared towards corporate functions, Karlsruhe’s hotels don’t rank too highly on the charm-ometer. Ask the tourist office for a list of private guesthouses.
DJH hostel ( 282 48; www.jugendherberge-karlsruhe.de; Moltkestrasse 24; dm 1st/subsequent night €20.50/17.60) If you don’t mind shortish beds and the odd giggling teenager in your dorm, try this 167-bed hostel, a few blocks west of the Schloss.
Hotel Avisa ( 349 77; www.hotel-avisa.de; Am Stadtgarten 5; s/d from €83/112; ) Spruce rooms with free wi-fi are the deal at this family-run hotel, two blocks northeast of the Hauptbahnhof.
Acora Hotel ( 850 90; www.acora.de; Sophienstrasse 69-71; s/d from €96/119; ) Chirpy staff make you feel right at home at this apartment-hotel, featuring bright, modern rooms equipped with kitchenettes.
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Eating & Drinking
Café Salomon ( 921 2080; Hans-Thoma-Strasse 3; bagels €1-€4.50 8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-6pm Sat & Sun) The go-to place for Israeli breakfasts and authentic bagels such as Greek-style with feta and olives.
MoccaSin ( 921 2127; Ritterstrasse 6; drinks & snacks €1.70-4; 7.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-8pm Sat, 11am-7pm Sun) Unlike in the 16th century when coffee drinkers were sinners (hence the name), you can sip mochas, smoothies or organic espressos in heathenry peace at this sleek cafe.
Die Kippe ( 697 829; Gottesauer Strasse 23; daily special €3.90; 8am-1am, to 3am Fri & Sat) Every student has a tale about Kippe, Karlsruhe’s best-loved ‘dog end’, named after the free tobacco behind the bar. Wallet-friendly daily specials might include