Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [366]
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MESSING ABOUT ON THE RIVER
Hundreds of competitors descend on the Neckar in fancy dress for June’s hilarious Stocherkahnrennen (Punt Race). Kicking off upstream, the race begins politely, but too much heave-ho soon brings out the one-upmanship, particularly around the narrow Nadelöhr (needle’s eye), where jostling, shoving, dunking, and even breaking your rival’s oar are permitted. The first team to reach the Neckarbrücke wins the race, the title and as much beer as they can sink. The losers, much to the crowd’s amusement, have to guzzle half a litre of cod-liver oil. Get there early (around 1pm) for a prime spot on Platanenallee and prepare to be splashed.
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Festivals & Events
Time your visit to catch the wild Stocherkahnrennen (above) in early June, or liberate your duckie from the bathtub at the Entenrennen (www.tuebinger-entenrennen.de) on the first Saturday in October, when some 6000 rubber ducks bob from Alleenbrücke to Neckarbrücke. Summer’s biggest shindig is the Stadtfest in July, with bands, a funfair, fireworks and plentiful bratwurst.
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Sleeping
Neckar Camping Tübingen ( 431 45; www.neckarcamping.de; Rappenberghalde 61; per person/tent/car €6/4.80/3; Apr-Oct) You can paddle right up to this tree-fringed site by the river, where first-rate facilities include a communal kitchen, restaurant, bike rental and wi-fi. Bus 9 stops nearby.
DJH hostel ( 230 02; www.jugendherberge-tuebingen.de; Gartenstrasse 22/2; dm 1st/subsequent night €21.90/18.60; ) Plain the dorms may be, but there are no quibbles about this hostel’s brilliant location on the north bank of the Neckar. There’s a chilled terrace and cafeteria. Hoof it or take bus 22 from the Hauptbahnhof.
Pension Binder ( 526 40; Nonnengasse 4; s €53, d €82-98) Service is borderline matronly (mind your Ps and Qs) but quarters are immaculate, quiet and endearingly old fashioned, especially the beamed attic room. Book well ahead.
Hotel am Schloss ( 929 40; www.hotelamschloss.de; Burgsteige 18; s €65-75, d €118-135; ) Some come for the restaurant’s legendary Maultaschen (mains €9 to €15), some for peerless castle views, and others for the dapper rooms ensconced in a 16th-century building. Rumour has it Kepler was partial to the wine here; try a drop yourself before attempting the tongue twister above the bench outside: dohoggeddiadiaemmerdohogged (the same people sit in the same spot). And a very nice spot it is, too.
Landhotel Hirsch ( 609 30; www.landhotel-hirsch-bebenhausen.de; Schönbuchstrasse 28, Bebenhausen; s €92-105, d €142-195; ) Worth the 6km ride to cute-as-a-button Bebenhausen, the Hirsch has bright cottage-style rooms with plump beds and marble bathrooms. Take bus 828 from Tübingen Hauptbahnhof.
Hotel Krone Tübingen ( 133 10; www.krone-tuebingen.de; Uhlandstrasse 1; s €107-119, d €139-159; ) If it’s good enough for the Dalai Lama and the Duke of Württemberg… In family hands since 1885, this old-world charmer at the southern end of Eberhardsbrücke shelters 43 plush rooms.
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Eating
Eiscafé San Marco ( 239 47; Nonnengasse 14; ice cream €0.80-9.80; 10am-10pm) When the sun’s out, sit on the terrace at Italian-run San Marco for creamy gelati made with fresh fruit.
X ( 249 02; Kornhausstrasse 6; snacks €1.50-3; 11am-1am) Sizzling and frying since 1971, this hole-in-the-wall bolt-hole churns out good-value student fodder including Tübingen’s crispest fries, bratwurst and burgers.
Kornblume ( 527 08; Haaggasse 15; snacks €2.50-8; 11am-8pm Mon-Fri; ) Vegies and health-conscious locals squeeze into this hobbit-like cafe for wholesome soups, vitamin-rich juices and organic salads by the scoopful.
Die Kichererbse ( 521 71; Metzgergasse 2; snacks €3-5; 8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Sat; ) All hail the ‘chickpea’ for