Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [372]
Hotel zum Anker ( 632 97; Rabengasse 2; s with/without bathroom €48/35, d from €65/55; ) These well-kept digs are popular among cyclists doing the Danube. The recently revamped, parquet-floored rooms represent excellent value. Astronomer Johannes Kepler’s first works were printed here in 1627.
Münster Hotel ( 641 62; Münsterplatz 14; s with/without bathroom €45/33, d €68-78) Rooms are nothing flash, but there are no arguments about the modest rates, impeccable cleanliness and awesome Münster views at this hotel on the square.
Hotel am Rathaus & Hotel Reblaus ( 968 490; www.rathausulm.de, in German; Kronengasse 10; s/d/q €68/88/135, s/d without bathroom €50/70; ) Just paces from the Rathaus, these family-run twins ooze individual charm in rooms with flourishes like stucco and Biedermeier furnishings.
Das Schmale Haus ( 175 4940; Fischergasse 27; s €76-81, d €99-104) Measuring just 4.5m across, the half-timbered ‘narrow house’ is a one-off. The affable Heides have transformed this slender 16th-century pad into a gorgeous B&B, with exposed beams, downy bedding and wood floors in all three rooms. Call ahead and you might just get lucky.
Hotel Schiefes Haus ( 967 930; www.hotelschiefeshausulm.de; Schwörhausgasse 6; s/d €125/148) There was a crooked man and he walked a crooked mile…presumably to the world’s most crooked hotel. But fear not, ye of little wonkiness, this 15th-century, half-timbered rarity is not about to topple into the Blau River. And up those creaking wood stairs, in your snug, beamed room, you won’t have to buckle yourself to the bed thanks to spirit levels and specially made height adjusters. If you’re feeling really crooked, plump straight for room No 6.
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Eating & Drinking
Pubs and restaurants are virtually wall to wall along Neue Strasse and the Blau River.
Gyros Grill ( 602 3146; Weinhofberg 5; snacks €2.70-7.80) This hole-in-the-wall joint rustles up tasty pitta gyros, haloumi and calamari, and has a terrace beside the Blau.
Café im Kornhauskeller ( 746 78; Hafengasse 19; breakfast & snacks €4-8; 8am-midnight Mon-Sat, 9am-10pm Sun) Art-slung walls and an attractive inner courtyard create a laid-back vibe at this cafe, great for breakfast (we like the Da Vinci with prosecco, melon and Parma ham), salads and drinks.
Tagblatt ( 746 78; Insel 1, Neu-Ulm; snacks €5-9; 8am-2am Mon-Fri, 5am-2am Sat & Sun) Welcome to Bavaria and one of Ulm’s finest riverside beer gardens, with prime views to the Altstadt. Grab a chair outside to quaff a cold one, or chomp imaginative salads, schnitzels and burgers.
Drei Kannen ( 677 17; Hafenbad 31/1; lunch special Mon-Fri €5.90, mains €8-17) A rustic Swabian restaurant whose courtyard is overlooked by an Italian-style loggia. Loosen a belt notch for dishes like pork knuckles and Schupfnudeln (potato noodles), washed down with malty beers.
Café im Stadthaus ( 600 93; Münsterplatz 50; lunch special €7.90; 8am-midnight Mon-Sat, 10am-9pm Sun) This modern glass cube has appetising lunch specials and a terrace offering peerless views of the Münster.
Barfüsser ( 602 1110; Lautenberg 1; mains €6-16.50; 10am-1am, to 2am Thu-Sat) Light bites like Flammkuchen and Käsespätzle (cheese noodles) soak up the prize-winning beer, microbrewed in Neu-Ulm, at this brewpub. Tuesday is karaoke night.
Wilder Mann ( 205 8743; Fischergasse 2; mains €7.50-14.90) Young and lively, this pub hosts fun events from barbecues to DJ nights. The well-mixed cocktails and people-watching terrace compensate for the so-so food.
Zur Forelle ( 639 24; Fischergasse 25; mains €9.50-21.50; 11am-3pm & 5pm-midnight) Since 1626, this low-ceilinged tavern has been convincing wayfarers (Einstein included) about the joys of seasonal Swabian cuisine. Ablaze with flowers in summer, this wood-panelled haunt by the Blau prides itself on its namesake Forelle (trout), kept fresh under the bridge.
Yamas ( 407 8614; www.yamas-ulm.com, in