Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [384]
Black Forest Hostel ( 881 7870; www.blackforest-hostel.de; Kartäuserstrasse 33; dm €13-22, s €29, d €48; ) Groove is in the heart of these cheerful backpacker digs, housed in a revamped factory five minutes’ walk from the Altstadt. Reggae tunes, a well-equipped kitchen, and instruments for strumming add to the sociable vibe. The space-age showers are something else. Bike hire costs €5 per day.
Hotel Dionysos ( 293 53; www.hoteldionysos.de, in German; Hirschstrasse 2, Günterstal; d with shower €45, s/d with basin €28/40) For no-frills, spotless rooms, this hotel with a Greek restaurant is a good deal. It’s an easy 3km ride south of the Altstadt to streamside Günterstal on tram line 4.
Hotel Goldene Krone ( 137 6083; www.hotelpension-goldene-krone.de, in German; Mattenstrasse 2a; s/d €49/71; ) A friendly pick 10 minutes’ walk from the centre, this hotel has comfortable if poky rooms with parquet floors.
Hotel Schwarzwälder Hof ( 380 30; www.schwarzwaelder-hof.eu; Herrenstrasse 43; s €45-70, d €75-105; ) Down the cobbled lane and up the wrought-iron staircase lie well-kept quarters. Choose between ‘basic’ (but rather nice) and ‘modern’ rooms with dark-wood floors, flat-screen TVs and Altstadt views. The rustic tavern (mains €8.80 to €16.50) serves regional fare and wines.
Hotel Barbara ( 296 250; www.hotel-barbara.de; Poststrasse 4; s €79-95, d €98-119; ) A grandfather clock, curvy staircases and high ceilings give this art-nouveau town house a nostalgic feel. It’s a homely, family-run place with old-fashioned rooms and free wi-fi.
Hotel Minerva ( 386 490; www.minerva-freiburg.de, in German; Poststrasse 8; s €75-90, d €105-115) Up front the Minerva is all art-nouveau flair with arched windows and polished wood. Rooms are run-of-the-mill by comparison, though immaculate and comfy. There’s a small sauna and free wi-fi.
Hotel Oberkirch ( 202 6868; www.hotel-oberkirch.de; Münsterplatz 22; s €95-118, d €139-161; ) Our readers sing the praises of this green-shuttered, 250-year-old hotel, with the Münster views of a million postcards. The countrified rooms reveal a Laura Ashley love of florals and bathrooms positively sparkle.
Park Hotel Post ( 385 480; www.park-hotel-post.de; Am Colombipark 63; s €109-139, d €129-189; ) Slip back to the more graceful age of art nouveau at this refined pile overlooking Colombipark, with summery rooms decorated in pastel blues and yellows. Attentive service and generous breakfasts sweeten the deal.
Hotel zum Roten Bären ( 387 870; www.roter-baeren.de; Oberlinden 12; s €110-125, d €152-172; ) Billed as Germany’s oldest guesthouse, this frescoed hotel near Schwabentor creaks under the weight of its 900-year history. The vaulted cellar is medieval, while the rooms are modern with sleek wood furnishings and wi-fi.
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Eating
Freiburg is a festive town that enjoys eating out, preferably outdoors. The Altstadt is stacked with cafes, wine taverns, brewpubs and restaurants, many spilling out onto pavement terraces. The euro-conscious find cheap bites on Martinstor and Kartäuserstrasse.
Markthalle (Martinsgasse 235; 8am-8pm Mon-Thu, 8am-midnight Fri & Sat) A food court whose Mexican, Italian, Indian and French counters offer fast, tasty lunches.
Zylinder Feinkost ( 384 2624; Konviktstrasse 51; antipasti plate €8; 10am-noon & 2-6pm Tue-Thu, 10am-6pm Fri & Sat) Opera plays in this little Italian deli, where Matteo’s passion for the minutiae of Chianti and antipasti is contagious. Pull up a stack of crates for a glass of prosecco and homemade focaccia with wafer-thin prosciutto.
Harem ( 225 33; Gerberau 7c; lunch €5.70, mains €6-9; 11.30am-midnight) No concubines here, just taste-bud-seducing Turkish specialities, like crispy börek (filled pastries) and baklava. Don’t miss the original city walls out back.
Chang ( 137