Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [413]
Campingplatz Maaraue ( 06134-4383; www.krkg.de/camping.html; Auf der Maaraue 48, Mainz-Kostheim; adult/tent/car €4.50/3/3; Apr-Oct) This grassy riverside camping ground is across the Rhine from the city centre. From the Hauptbahnhof take bus 54, 55, 56, 57, 68 or 91 to Brückenkopf; from there it’s a 10-minute walk south.
DJH hostel ( 853 32; www.jugendherberge.de; Otto-Brunfels-Schneise 4; dm from €19.90; ) A modernised 166-bed hostel near a city park with two- and four-bed rooms, all with private bathroom. About 3.5km southeast of the Hauptbahnhof; take bus 62, 63 or 92.
Hotel Hammer ( 965 280; www.hotel-hammer.com; Bahnhofplatz 6; s/d from €99/119, weekends & low season from €79/89; ) With an upbeat colour scheme, bright bathrooms and an urban skyline over each bed, the 37-room, business-oriented Hammer is convenient to the train station. The sauna is a welcome bonus.
Hotel Hof Ehrenfels ( 971 2340; www.hof-ehrenfels.de; Grebenstrasse 5-7; s/d/tr €80/100/120, €10 less Fri-Sun; ) Just steps from the cathedral, this 22-room place, housed in a 15th-century, one-time Carmelite nunnery, has Dom views that are hard to beat. A real treat if you love the tintinnabulation of the bells, bells, bells. Renovated in 2008.
Hotel Schwan ( 144 920; www.mainz-hotel-schwan.de; Liebfrauenplatz 7; r €87-117) You can’t get any more central than this family-run place, around since 1463. The 22 well-lit rooms have baroque-style furnishings.
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Eating & Drinking
Cheap eateries can be found near the Hauptbahnhof and south of the Dom along Augustinerstrasse.
Eisgrubbräu ( 221 104; www.eisgrub.de, in German; Weissliliengasse 1a; mains €5.80-17.90; 9am-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat) Grab a seat in this down-to-earth microbrewery’s warren of vaulted chambers, order a mug of Dunkel (dark) or Hell (light) – or even a 3L/5L Bierturm (beer tower; €17.90/28.40) – and settle in for people watching. The Monday-to-Friday lunch (€5.90) – an all-you-can-eat buffet from October to March – and the daily breakfast buffet (€6.90; available 9am to noon) offer good value.
Heiliggeist ( 225 757; www.heiliggeist-mainz.de; Mailandsgasse 11; mains €6-20; 4pm-1am Mon-Fri, 9am-1am or 2am Sat, Sun & holidays) Sit beneath the soaring Gothic vaults of a 15th-century hospital and enjoy a drink, snack or full meal from a menu filled with Italian-inspired creations.
Weinstube Hottum ( 223 370; Grebenstrasse 3; mains €7.50-13.50; 4pm-midnight) One of the best of the Altstadt wine taverns, Hottum has a cosy, traditional atmosphere, delectable wines and a menu – half of which appears on a tiny slate tablet – with regional dishes such as Saumagen (pig’s stomach stuffed with meat, potatoes and spices, then boiled, sliced and briefly fried) and Winzersteak (vintner-style pork steak).
Specht ( 231 770; Rotekopfgasse 2; mains €9.50-16; 5pm-midnight Sun-Fri, 11.30am-midnight Sat) Thanks to its ancient wood beams, smoked walls and Fastnacht (carnival) medals, ‘Woodpecker’ has a 19th-century feel, though the building itself dates from 1557. It serves German and regional cuisine made with fresh products from the nearby market. If the ancient beam ceiling doesn’t look uneven and wavy, you’ve had too much to drink.
Zur Kanzel ( 237 137; Grebenstrasse 6; mains €18.50-21.50; 5pm-1am Mon-Fri, noon-1am Sat) A classy place with a distinctly French flair and a nice courtyard, this Weinstube (wine bar) serves upmarket French and regional cuisine, including dishes made with grüne Sosse (light sauce made with fresh herbs, sour cream and soft white cheese). All ingredients are fresh, so the menu evolves with the seasons.
Irish Pub ( 231 430; Weissliliengasse 5; 5pm-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat) A candle-lit basement watering hole – Irish owned and staffed – with karaoke on Monday and Thursday, solo musicians Tuesday and Wednesday, bands on Friday and Saturday and an open-mike night on Sunday (all from 9.30pm). Attracts a very international crowd, including US soldiers from Wiesbaden.
Self-catering options:
Food market (Marktplatz & Liebfrauenplatz; 7am-2pm