Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [416]
Just east of here is the arched Raschitor (Rashi Gate; cnr Judengasse & Karolingerstrasse), a city gate in the wall that still partially encircles the Altstadt.
Just outside the southwest corner of the Altstadt is the tranquil Alter Jüdenfriedhof (Old Jewish Cemetery; Willy-Brandt-Ring 21; 9am-dusk Sep-Jun, to 8pm Jul & Aug, closed Jewish holidays), also known as the Heiliger Sand (meaning ‘sacred sand’), one of the oldest Jewish cemeteries in Europe (it was inaugurated in 1076). Men are asked to cover their heads. The most revered gravestone – it’s one of two topped with large piles of pebbles, left by visitors as tokens of respect, and Western Wall–style prayer notes – is that of Rabbi Meir of Rothenburg (1215–93), who died in captivity after being imprisoned by King Rudolf of Habsburg for attempting to lead a group of persecuted Jews to Palestine.
NIBELUNGEN MUSEUM
The Nibelungenlied is the ultimate tale of love and hate, treasure and treachery, revenge and death, with a cast including dwarves, dragons and bloodthirsty Überfrauen (superwomen). Richard Wagner set it to music, Fritz Lang turned it into a masterful silent movie (in 1924) and the Nazis abused its mythology, seeing in Siegfried the quintessential German hero.
The state-of-the-art Nibelungen Museum ( 202 120; www.nibelungen-museum.de; Fischerpförtchen 10; adult/child/student €5.50/3.50/4.50; 10am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun) seeks to rescue the epic from the Nazi’s manipulations, bringing it to life in a surprisingly interesting multimedia exhibit set up in two towers and along the ramparts of the medieval town wall. In the first tower you can listen to the anonymous poet tell his tale (in flawless English) while watching excerpts from Lang’s classic flick. Signs are in German, English and French.
OTHER MUSEUMS
Two blocks south of the Dom (behind the youth hostel), the Museum der Stadt Worms (City Museum; 946 390; Weckerlingplatz 7; adult/student/family €2/1/5, special exhibitions extra; 10am-5pm Tue-Sun), housed in the handsome Andreasstift Kirche (founded around AD 800), chronicles Worms’ turbulent history from neolithic and Roman times. Highlights include Bronze Age women’s jewellery and delicate Roman glass excavated from local graves. Signs are in German.
In the corner of a pretty park just north of the Dom, on the grounds of the former imperial and bishop’s palace, is the Museum Heylshof ( 220 00; www.heylshof.de, in German; Stephansgasse 9; adult/student/family €3.50/1/5; 11am-5pm Tue-Sun May-Sep, 2-5pm Tue-Sat & 11am-5pm Sun mid-Feb–Apr & Oct-Dec). Among the paintings from the 15th to the 19th centuries are works by Tintoretto, Rubens and Lenbach. The Venetian, Bohemian and German glass, Frankenthal porcelain and beer steins (in the basement) are also worth a look.
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Sleeping
DJH hostel ( 257 80; www.jugendherberge.de; Dechanei-gasse 1; dm €18.90; reception 7.30am-10pm Sun-Thu, till 11pm Fri & Sat; ) A 140-bed hostel in an unbeatable location facing the south side of the Dom. The well-kept rooms have two to six beds and private bathrooms. Has free parking out front.
Hotel Lortze-Eck ( 263 49; Schlossergasse 10-14; www.lortzeeck.de, in German; s/d €46/65) This 14-room hotel is a practical choice, particularly suitable if you like well-intentioned fake flowers. Situated half a block east of Kämmererstrasse 22.
Hotel Kriemhilde ( 911 50; www.hotel-kriemhilde.de; Hofgasse 2-4; s/d €52/74, s with hall toilet €39) Wake up to the peal of the Dom bells at this unassuming, family-run inn. It faces the north side of the mighty cathedral, which is visible from some of the 19 rooms and audible everywhere.
Parkhotel Prinz Carl ( 3080; www.parkhotel-prinzcarl.de; Prinz-Carl-Anlage 10-14; s/d from €85/125; ) Housed in handsome barracks built – and built to last – during the reign of the last Kaiser, this place has 90 pastel rooms that are spacious, comfortable and businesslike. On the northern edge of town, 500m north – through a chestnut-shaded