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here and then mount it 28m off the ground?); a 1960s U-boat that’s claustrophobic even on dry land; and a mammoth Antonov An-22 cargo plane with an all-analogue cockpit and a nose cone you can peer out of. Other highlights include the Soviet space shuttle Buran, a superb collection of vintage automobiles and fire engines, and military jets and helicopters from both sides of the Iron Curtain. A whole building is filled with scale models, including ships, cars, planes and a destroyed German city c 1945.

The Wilhelmsbau showcases some truly extraordinary automated musical instruments – all in working order – including a Hupfeld Phonoliszt-Violina, a player-piano that also bows and fingers two violins, and a Roland orchestrion (1928), which simulates the sound of a soprano accompanying an orchestra.

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Sleeping

DJH hostel ( 615 97; www.jugendherberge.de; Geibstrasse 5; dm €19.90; reception 7.30am-8pm; ) A bright, cheery hostel on the Rhine, a few hundred metres east of the Technik Museum and next door to the new Bademaxx swimming complex. Has 51 rooms, including 13 bunk doubles, all with private bathroom. Linked to the Hauptbahnhof and city centre by the City-Shuttle bus.

Maximilian ( 100 2500; www.mein-maximilian.de, in German; Korngasse 15; r €50-100) This cafe-bistro rents out attractive rooms and two-person apartments.

Hotel Zum Augarten ( 754 58; www.augarten.de, in German; Rheinhäuser Strasse 52; s €50-65, d €68-85; ) A cosy, family-run, family-friendly hotel with 16 rooms, where you’ll enjoy German guest-house hospitality and observe suburban German life up close. Situated 1.7km south of the Dom – from the Technik Museum take Industriestrasse and turn right on Am Flugplatz.

Hotel Trutzpfaff ( 292 529; www.trutzpfaff-hotel.de, in German; Webergasse 5; s/d €56/76; reception 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm Sat & Sun; ) Centrally situated just a block south of the tourist office, this unassuming hostelry has eight decent rooms. The Jewish tombstone given pride of place at the entrance was brought to this site, for use in reconstruction, after the Napoleonic Wars.

Hotel am Technik Museum ( 671 00; www.hotel-am-technik-museum.de; Am Technik Museum 1; s/d from €62/78; ) Part of the Technik Museum complex, this place has 107 practical, workaday rooms. Got a campervan or tent? You can stay at the adjacent Stellplatz (€20 per site), open year-round. Linked to the Hauptbahnhof and city centre by the City-Shuttle bus.

Hotel Domhof ( 132 90; www.domhof.de, in German; Bauhof 3; s €95, d €116-125, cheaper Sun night; ) A hotel has stood on this spot next to the Dom – an unbeatable location – since the Middle Ages, once hosting emperors, kings and councillors. The 49 comfortable rooms, wrapped around an ivy-covered, cobbled courtyard, have bright new bathrooms.

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Eating & Drinking

A selection of dining options, including outdoor cafes in the warm months, can be found along Maximilianstrasse and nearby streets, such as Kleine Pfaffengasse (near the Judenhof).

Domhof-Hausbrauerei ( 674 40; Grosse Himmelsgasse 6; mains €4.90-14.50; 10am or 11am-midnight or 1am Tue-Sat, to 11pm Sun & Mon) Speyer’s loveliest beer garden, shaded by chestnut trees, is just steps west of the Dom and has a miniature children’s playground. The menu features regional and German favourites, some prepared using the four beers brewed on the premises.

Hotel Trutzpfaff ( 292 529; Webergasse 5; mains €6.50-12.80; lunch & dinner Mon-Fri, lunch Sun) The restaurant at Hotel Trutzpfaff serves up Palatine specialities such as Saumagen.

Maximilian ( 100 2500; Korngasse 15; mains €6.90-13.90; 8am-midnight Sun-Wed, to 1am Thu-Sat) Just inside the Altpörtel (facing the Tengelmann supermarket), this convivial cafe-bistro serves up 10 different breakfasts, salads, grilled meats, Italian options and two reasonably priced dinner specials (€4.90 and €5.90).

Zweierlei ( 611 10; www.das-zweierlei.de, in German; Johannesstrasse 1, cnr Salzgasse; mains €7.50-34; noon-midnight daily Mar-Sep, closed Mon Oct-Apr) This innovative