Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [423]
Galleries and artisans’ studios (eg jewellery makers) can be visited along the Rundgang Kunst und Kultur (Art and Culture Circuit); look for the black-on-yellow ‘K’ signs. A leaflet available at the tourist office has details and opening hours.
Near the tourist office, the whimsical Geissbockbrunnen (Goat Fountain), erected in 1985, celebrates a quirky local tradition. For seven centuries, the nearby town of Lambrecht has had to pay an annual tribute of one goat for using pastureland belonging to Deidesheim. The presentation of this goat, which is auctioned off to raise funds for local cultural activities, culminates in the raucous Geissbockfest (Goat Festival), held on Pentecost Tuesday.
SLEEPING & EATING
Gästehaus Ritter von Böhl ( 972 201; www.ritter-von-boehl.de, in German; Weinstrasse 35; s €49, d €75-89; reception 8am-6pm; ) Set around a delightful, wisteria-wrapped courtyard, this guest house belongs to, and occupies part of the grounds of, a charity hospital (now an old-age home), founded in 1494. Renovated in 2008, it has 22 rooms with pastel walls and parquet floors and a bright breakfast atrium.
Deidesheimer Hof ( 968 70; www.deidesheimerhof.de; Am Marktplatz; s/d from €120/165, low season from €95/120; ) This renowned hostelry has 28 elegant rooms, each unique, and two fine restaurants: St Urban (four-course menu costs €41), whose regional offerings include Saumagen, made with chestnuts in autumn; and the gourmet Schwarzer Hahn (five-/six-/seven-course menu costs €75/85/95; open for dinner Tuesday to Saturday), which specialises in creative French- and Palatinate-style dishes. Check out the photos of kings and presidents who have dined here.
Turmstüb’l ( 981 081; Turmstrasse 3; mains €8.20-13.80; 6pm-midnight Tue-Sat, noon-11pm Sun & holidays) This contemporary, artsy wine cafe, down an alley opposite the church, serves tasty hot dishes, including regional specialities such as Saumagen, and 22 wines by the glass (€3 to €4.50).
Gasthaus zur Kanne ( 966 00; www.gasthauszurkanne.de, in German; Weinstrasse 31; mains €10-25; noon-2pm & 6-10pm Wed-Sun) Serves fresh, refined regional cuisine, with a menu that changes daily. You can sit inside at hand-painted tables or in the leafy courtyard.
GETTING AROUND
Owned by Olympic cycling champion Stefan Steinweg, Steinweg ( 982 284; www.gepaeckservice-pfalz.de, in German; Kirschgartenstrasse 49; Apr-Oct), 200m from the tourist office, rents bikes (€8 per day) and arranges cycling tours.
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Bad Dürkheim
06322 / pop 18,900
Bad Dürkheim is a handsome, easily walkable spa town, as famous for its salty thermal springs as for the annual Dürkheimer Wurstmarkt (sausage market; www.duerkheimer-wurstmarkt.de), held on the second and third weekends of September, which bills itself as the world’s largest wine festival. Most of the action takes place around the Dürkheimer Riesenfass, a gargantuan wine cask that’s had a restaurant inside since a master cooper built it in 1934 (its 75th anniversary was feted in 2009).
INFORMATION
Billard Café Valentino (Weinstrasse Sud 16; per hr €2; 3pm-1am or 2am Mon-Fri, 2pm-1am or 2am Sat & Sun) A pool hall and sports bar with internet access. One block up the hill (southeast) of the Obermarkt.
Tourist office ( 935 140; www.bad-duerkheim.com, in German; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri year-round, 11am-3pm Sat & Sun, 11am-1pm holidays May-Oct). In the Kurzentrum building. Has a worthwhile walking-tour map in English.
SIGHTS
Between the Hauptbahnhof and the tourist office lies the Kurpark, a grassy, azalea- and wisteria-filled park where you’ll find a children’s playground (in the corner nearest the Hauptbahnhof) and most of the town’s spa and wellness facilities, including the Kurzentrum (spa centre; 9640; www.kurzentrum-bad-duerkheim.de, in German; Kurbrunnenstrasse 14).
The city-run Salinarium ( 935 865; www.salinarium.de, in German; pools adult/child over