Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [426]
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Sleeping & Eating
The town centres of Bad Neuenahr and Ahrweiler (eg around Marktplatz) teem with traditional German restaurants.
DJH hostel ( 349 24; www.jugendherberge.de; St-Pius-Strasse 7; dm €19.90; ) This modern, 140-bed hostel is on the south bank of the Ahr between Ahrweiler and Bad Neuenahr (1.5km from each). All rooms have a private bathroom.
Hotel Garni Schützenhof ( 902 83; www.schuetzenhof-ahrweiler.de, in German; Schützenstrasse 1, Ahrweiler; s/d from €50/77; ) Facing the Ahrtor, one of Ahrweiler’s landmark town gates, this unpretentious, welcoming family-run hotel has 14 spacious rooms. Excellent value.
Hotel & Restaurant Hohenzollern ( 9730; www.hotelhohenzollern.com, in German; Am Silberberg 50, Ahrweiler; s €73-88, d €118-153; ) This elegant hillside hotel, right on the Rotweinwanderweg, has unbeatable valley views and a gourmet restaurant (four-/five-/six-course menu €57/69/74) with local, French and Italian dishes. From Ahrweiler’s Museum Roemervilla, head up the 1½-lane road 700m through the forest.
Bell’s WeinRestaurant ( 900 243; www.bells-restaurant.de, in German; Niederhutstrasse 27a, Ahrweiler; mains €9.50-17.90; 11.30am-10pm Tue-Fri, to 10.30pm Sat, to 9pm Sun, also open Mon in summer) The menu here includes soups, salads, potatoes, schnitzel, vegie plates and four options for kids. In fine weather, the chestnut-shaded beer garden has the nicest tables.
Eifelstube ( 348 50; www.eifelstube-ahrweiler.de, in German; Ahrhutstrasse 26, Ahrweiler; mains €13-23; Thu-Mon year-round, plus Wed Sep & Oct) Sample upmarket German and regional specialities in this cosy dining room, with its beam ceiling and tiled stove, run by the same family since 1905.
For self-catering, there’s Edeka Markt (Ahrhutstrasse 8; 8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat), a small supermarket just inside the Ahrtor.
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Getting There & Away
Rail travel to Koblenz from the Ahrweiler Markt (€13), Ahrweiler (€13) and Bad Neuenahr (€11.50) train stations requires a change at Remagen (15 minutes). Direct trains from all three stations serve Bonn (€4.20, 35 minutes, hourly).
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ALTENAHR
02643 / pop 1700
Surrounded on all sides by craggy peaks, steep vineyards and rolling hills, Altenahr may just be the most romantic spot in the Ahr Valley. The landscape is best appreciated by taking a 20-minute uphill walk from the Bahnhof to the 11th-century Burgruine Are, a ruined hilltop castle, whose weather-beaten stone tower stands guard over the valley.
Altenahr is the western terminus of the Rotweinwanderweg. A dozen more trails can be picked up in the village centre (eg the 7km Geologischer Wanderweg) or at the top of the Ditschardhöhe, whose ‘peak’, at 354m, is most easily reached by the Seilbahn (chairlift; 8383; up only/return adult €3/5, 3-14yr €2/2.50; 10am-5pm or later Easter-Oct, closes earlier in stormy weather). In the town centre, parts of the Romanesque Pfarrkirche Maria Verkündigung (Church of the Annunciation) date from the late 1100s.
Altenahr’s tourist office (Haus des Gastes; 8448; www.altenahr-ahr.de; 9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat May & Aug-Oct, 10am-3pm Mon-Fri rest of year), inside the former Bahnhof building, sells hiking and cycling maps.
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Sleeping & Eating
Campingplatz Altenahr ( 8503; www.camping-altenahr.de; Im Pappelauel; per tent & car/person €6/4.50; Apr-Oct). A grassy camping ground on the banks of the Ahr.
DJH hostel ( 1880; www.jugendherberge.de; Langfigtal 8; dm €19.90; ) Altenahr’s 92-bed hostel is beautifully located in the Langfigtal nature park, overlooking the Ahr.
Hotel-Restaurant Zum Schwarzen Kreuz ( 1534; www.zumschwarzenkreuz.de, in German; Brückenstrasse 5-7; s €35-95, d €58-95; ) In the heart of town, this 30-room place offers retro flair, a quiet library with overstuffed chairs (facing room 26) and rooms with balconies and groovy tapestries. The restaurant does Eifel specialities