Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [435]
Weingut Felsenkeller ( 2154; www.felsenkeller-boppard.de, in German; Mühltal 21; 3-10pm or later Wed-Mon) Across the street from the chairlift station and next to a little stream, this place serves its own and other local growers’ wines.
Severus Stube ( 3218; Untere Marktstrasse 7; mains €5.50-13.50; Fri-Wed) Serves up tasty, good-value German food in a cosy, rustic dining room.
For self-catering, try Penny Markt supermarket (Oberstrasse 171; 8am-8pm Mon-Sat), one of several food shops along Oberstrasse.
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ST GOAR
06741 / pop 3000
St Goar, 10km upriver from Boppard and 28km downriver from Bingen, is lorded over by the sprawling ruins of Burg Rheinfels ( 383; Schlossberg; adult/6-14yr €4/2; 9am-6pm daily mid-Mar–early Nov, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun in good weather early Nov–mid-Mar), once the mightiest fortress on the Rhine. Built in 1245 by Count Dieter V of Katzenelnbogen as a base for his toll-collecting operations, its size and labyrinthine layout are truly astonishing. Not only kids will love exploring the subterranean tunnels and galleries. To get there, you can walk for 20 minutes up the hill from the youth hostel or drive (parking fee required).
Another kid-pleasing stop is the Deutsches Puppen- und Bärenmuseum (German Doll & Teddy Bear Museum; 7270; www.deutsches-puppen-und-baerenmuseum.de; Sonnengasse 8; adult/4-11yr/12-17yr €3.50/1.50/2.50; 10am-5pm daily Apr-Dec, 2-5pm Sat & Sun Jan-Mar).
The Protestant Stiftskirche (Am Marktplatz), across the street from the Bahnhof, is known for its late Gothic murals, neat vaulting and Romanesque crypt.
Walking options include the Panoramaweg – to get there follow the signs from the Rathaus or across the tracks from the Bahnhof.
The tourist office ( 383; www.st-goar.de; Heerstrasse 86; 9am-12.30pm & 1.30-6pm Mon-Fri May-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Apr, closes 2pm Fri Nov-Mar, also open 10am-noon Sat May-Sep), on the pedestrianised main street, can supply you with an English map-guide for the Via Sancti Goaris city-centre walking tour and offers internet access (€0.50 per 10 minutes).
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Sleeping & Eating
Hotels line the waterfront; the three listed below are all near the Stiftskirche.
DJH hostel ( 388; www.jugendherberge.de; Bismarckweg 17; dm €14.40; reception 7am-10pm; ) This old-style, 126-bed hostel is at the northern end of town, on the hillside below Burg Rheinfels.
Hotel Hauser ( 333; www.hotelhauser.de; Heerstrasse 77; s €26-30, d €52-66; reception closed Mon Nov-Mar, hotel closed mid-Dec–mid-Feb) This slightly faded 13-room hotel feels like it’s been lived-in with humour and joie de vivre. The spacious rooms come with compact plastic shower pods, and some have balconies. The restaurant serves regional specialities, including fish.
Hotel Zur Loreley ( 1614; www.hotel-zur-loreley.de; Heerstrasse 87; s €47, d €60-70, apt per person €38-44, all incl breakfast; ) A central and welcoming place to hang your hat, this places has eight rooms with tasteful, modern decor and five holiday apartments.
Hotel am Markt ( 1721; www.hotel-am-markt-sankt-goar.de; Marktplatz 1; s/d/tr/q €50/65/90/99, s without bathroom €38; closed Nov-Feb) Central and welcoming, this family-owned hotel has 15 bright rooms outfitted with simple wooden furniture
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Getting Around
Bicycles can be rented from Goarbike ( 1735; Oberstrasse 44; per half-/whole day €6/11.50; 9am-1pm & 3-7pm Apr-Oct), near the Bahnhof.
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ST GOARSHAUSEN & LORELEY
06771 / pop 1600
St Goar’s twin town on the right bank of the Rhine – the two are connected by car ferry – is St Goarshausen, gateway to the most fabled spot along the Romantic Rhine, Loreley. This enormous slab of slate owes its fame