Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [442]
Frankfurt-Hahn Airport is only 20km from Traben-Trarbach and 30km from Bernkastel-Kues.
Most people start their exploration of the Moselle in either Trier or Koblenz. If you have private transport and are coming from the north, you might head up the Ahr Valley and cut through the Eifel Mountains. If you’re coming from the Saarland, your route will take you either along the beautiful Saar River or through the Hunsrück Mountains.
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Getting Around
BUS & TRAIN
The rail line linking Koblenz with Trier (€19.20, 1½ to two hours, at least hourly) follows the Moselle – and serves its villages – only as far upriver as Bullay (€10.30, 45 to 65 minutes from Koblenz, 40 to 50 minutes from Trier). From there, hourly Moselwein-Strecke shuttle trains head upriver to Traben-Trarbach (€3.10, 25 minutes, hourly).
The villages between Traben-Trarbach and Trier are served by bus 333 (at least six times daily Monday to Friday, twice daily Saturday and Sunday), run by Moselbahn buses ( 01805-131 619; www.moselbahn.de, in German).
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Driving is the easiest way to see the Moselle. From Trier, the B53 and then, from Bullay, the B49 follow the river all the way to Koblenz, crossing it several times.
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TRIER
0651 / pop 104,000
A Unesco World Heritage Site since 1986, Trier is home to Germany’s finest Roman monuments – including an extraordinary number of elaborate thermal baths – as well as architectural gems from later ages. Its proximity to both Luxembourg and France can be tasted in the cuisine and felt in the local esprit. About 21,000 students do their part to contribute to the lively atmosphere.
Founded by the Romans as Augusta Treverorum in 16 BC, Trier’s rise was as meteoric as its citizens were well bathed. The capital of the Belgian provinces of Roman Gaul by the 2nd century, it served as the capital of the Gallic Empire in the 3rd century and as the residence of Constantine the Great in the 4th century. A second heyday arrived in the 13th century, when its archbishops acquired the rank and power of prince-electors. In the following centuries, the city see-sawed between periods of wealth and poverty. Karl Marx (1818–83) lived here in bourgeois prosperity until age 17.
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Orientation
The Hauptbahnhof, in a slightly seedy area that’s being gentrified, is about 600m southeast of the landmark Porta Nigra and the adjacent tourist office. From there, the pedestrianised Simeonstrasse leads southwest to the Hauptmarkt. The district of Olewig is about 2km southeast of the centre.
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Information
Afro Cosmetics Business (Karl-Marx-Strasse 32; per hr €1; 11am-8pm Mon-Fri, noon-8pm Sat) Internet access.
ATMs At the Kornmarkt; also in the Hauptbahnhof.
Combination Ticket – Roman Monuments (adult/senior & student/family €6.20/3.10/14.80) Discounted admission to the Porta Nigra, Kaiserthermen, Amphitheater and Thermen am Viehmarkt. Sold at the tourist office and each site.
ES-Telecom (Bahnhofplatz 1; per hr €1; 9am-11pm) Internet access next to the Hauptbahnhof.
ITS Internet Cafe (Porta-Nigra-Platz 4; per hr €1.50; 9am-10pm Mon-Fri, 11am-9pm Sat, noon-10pm Sun)
Post office (Bahnhofplatz) Just north of the Hauptbahnhof.
Tourist office ( 978 080; www.trier.de; An der Porta Nigra; 9am-6pm Mon-Sat Mar-Dec, 10am-5pm Mon-Sat Jan & Feb, 10am-5pm Sun & holidays May-Oct, 10am-3pm Sun Mar, Apr & Nov-late Dec, 10am-1pm Sun late Dec-Feb) Next to the Porta Nigra. Has a hotel-vacancies board outside and sells Moselle-area walking and cycling maps.
TrierCard (individual/family €9/19) For three consecutive days you get 25% off museum and monument admissions, unlimited use of public transport and other discounts. Sold only at the tourist office.
Waschsalon (Brückenstrasse 19-21; 8am-10pm) Self-service laundry.
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Sights & Activities
Top billing among Trier’s Roman monuments goes to the Porta Nigra ( 718 1459; Porta-Nigra-Platz; adult/7-18yr/senior & student/family