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Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [464]

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this century-old villa has 38 spacious rooms. Breakfast is organic.

Concorde Hotel ( 242 4220; www.hotelconcorde.de; Karlstrasse 9, Bahnhofsviertel; Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof; s/d from €110/160, weekends €65/100, during fairs up to €270/350; ) Understated and friendly, this establishment in a restored century-old building has compact singles and spacious, sleek doubles with trendy washbasins and modern art photos on the walls.

Hotel Palmenhof ( 753 0060; www.palmenhof.com; Bockenheimer Landstrasse 89-91, Westend; Westend or Bockenheimer Warte; s €119-149, d €159-175, weekends s €75-90, d €85-100, breakfast €16; ) Built in 1890, this veteran establishment has 45 understated but tasteful rooms with classical furnishings. Also rents residential apartments (€33 to €50 plus taxes) for stays of at least two weeks.

Westin Grand ( 298 10; www.westin.com; Konrad-Adenauer-Strasse 5-7, Innenstadt; Konstablerwache; d €179-600; ) Convenient to the Zeil, this international standard business hotel has 371 large and very comfortable rooms with sparkling marble bathrooms. If your car is from the 1930s ask if you can park in the lobby. Breakfast is extra.


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Eating & Drinking

During trade fairs restaurants fill up fast, so it’s a good idea to call ahead.


BAHNHOFSVIERTEL

The train station area, some of it a bit insalubrious (at least at night), has quite a few cheap Mediterranean, Middle Eastern and Asian eateries. Part of Berlinerstrasse serves as a mini-Chinatown.

Indian Curry House ( 230 690; www.indiancurryhouse.de; Weserstrasse 17; Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof; mains €7.10-13.50, weekday lunch special €6.90; 11am-11pm Mon-Sat & during trade fairs Sun; ) A popular sit-down-and-takeaway place with tasty meat and vegie dishes, both northern and southern.

For picnic supplies, try Tengelmann supermarket (Karlstrasse 4; Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof; 7am-9pm Mon-Fri, 8am-9pm Sat).


ALTSTADT

Mozart Café ( 291 954; Töngesgasse 23-25; Hauptwache; cakes €2.90-3.80, light mains €6.90-16.50; 8am-9pm Mon-Sat, 9am-8pm Sun) Join Frankfurt’s ‘granny scene’ for coffee and cake or a light meal. Sit on red leather wing chairs inside or at Paris-cafe-style tables out front.

Metropol ( 288 287; Weckmarkt 13-15; Dom/Römer; mains €9-15.50, 2-course lunch €8.50; 9am-1am Tue-Thu, 9am-2am Fri & Sat, 9am-midnight Sun) Serves dishes from a changing menu that fluctuates between the inspired and bistro staples. Has a lovely courtyard out the back where children can chill out.

Paris’ Bar Café im Literaturhaus ( 2108 5985; www.paris-literaturhaus.de, in German; Schöne Aussicht 2; Dom/Römer; mains €15-23; 11am-midnight Mon-Fri, 6pm-midnight Sat, 11am-6pm Sun) Inside an imposing, colonnaded venue for literary events, this semi-formal restaurant offers consistently excellent meat and fish, including superlative rump steak (€19). Served by tram 14.

Kleinmarkthalle (next to Hasengasse 9; Dom/Römer; 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Sat) This covered food market (the first in postwar Frankfurt) has fruit and vegie stands, ethnic specialities, wine and beer places (along the glass northern wall) and several Wurst (sausage) places, including the renowned Gref Völsings Rindswurst at the western end, not far from a large mural depicting impressions of Frankfurt. You can eat at narrow tables along the walls.


INNENSTADT

Known to locals as Fressgasse (‘Munch Alley’; Hauptwache), the wide, pedestrianised stretch of Kalbächer Gasse and its continuation, Grosse Bockenheimer Strasse, has lots of mid-priced and fast-food eateries with outdoor tables.

Vapiano ( 9288 7888; www.vapiano.com; Goetheplatz 1-3; Hauptwache; pizza & pasta €5.75-8.75; 10am-midnight, until 1am Fri & Sat) One of the best downtown deals, this stylish Italian chain has a unique system: at the door you get an electronic card used to calculate your food and wine tab when you leave. Keep it off your tray lest it gets whisked away.

Karin ( 295 217; Grosser Hirschgraben 28; Willy-Brandt-Platz; mains €8-14; 9am-midnight Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm Sun, 10am-midnight holidays) Across from the Goethe-Haus,

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