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Bockenheimer Weinkontor ( 702 031; http://bockenheimer-weinkontor.de, in German; Schlossstrasse 92; Westbahnhof; 7pm-1am, until 2am Fri & Sat) This mellow wine bar, in a 19th-century courtyard-cellar workshop, attracts a mixed crowd. There’s a lovely vine-shaded summer courtyard, but the window ledge and the bar are the places to hang your buttocks and start gabbing. Serves light meals.

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EBBELWEI & HANDKÄSE MIT MUSIK

Frankfurt delicacies are best experienced in the city’s traditional taverns, which serve Ebbelwei (Ebbelwoi; Frankfurt dialect for Apfelwein, ie apple wine) along with local specialities like Handkäse mit Musik (‘hand-cheese with music’) and Frankfurter Grüne Sosse (Frankfurt green sauce).

Handkäse mit Musik is the sort of name you could only find in Germany. It describes a round cheese marinated in oil and vinegar with onions, served with bread and butter and no fork. As you might imagine, this potent mixture tends to give one a healthy dose of wind – the release of which, ladies and gentlemen, is the music part.

Frankfurter Grüne Sosse is made from parsley, sorrel, dill, burnet, borage, chervil and chives mixed with yoghurt, mayonnaise or sour cream; it’s served with potatoes and ox meat or eggs, and was Goethe’s favourite food.

Atmospheric joints (most in Sachsenhausen) serving Ebbelwei and local dishes:

Adolf Wagner ( 612 565; www.apfelwein-wagner.com, in German; Schweizerstrasse 69, Sachsenhausen; Schweizerplatz) Warm and woody.

Affentor Schänke ( 627 575; www.affentor-schaenke.de; Neuer Wall 9, Sachsenhausen; Lokalbahnhof; mains €8.50-14; 5pm-midnight Mon-Sat, noon-11pm Sun & holidays) With a tree-shaded terrace.

Apfelwein Solzer ( 452 171; www.solzer-frankfurt.de; Berger Strasse 260, Bornheim; Bornheim Mitte; Handkäse €2.60; 6pm-midnight Mon-Sat, 1-10pm Sun May-Oct, winter from 5pm daily) With wood-panelled walls and a covered courtyard.

Fichte Kränzi ( 612 778; www.fichtekraenzi.de; Wallstrasse 5, Sachsenhausen; Lokalbahnhof; 5pm-midnight) Has smoke-stained murals and great atmosphere.

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For self-catering:

Alnatura supermarket (Leipziger Strasse 19; Bockenheimer Warte; 8am-8pm Mon-Sat) A block northwest of Bockenheimer Warte.

Food market (Bockenheimer Warte; Bockenheimer Warte; 8am-6pm Thu)

NORDEND & BORNHEIM

Berger Strasse is lined with cafes and bars, especially northeast of Merianplatz ( Merianplatz). The pub-lined stretch of Berger Strasse around No 237 (just past Rendeler Strasse) is known as Alt-Bornheim (Old Bornheim; Bornheim Mitte).

Best Worscht in Town ( 1751 7318; www.bestworschtintown.de; Berger Strasse 80; Merianplatz; Wurst €2.50-2.90; 11am-10pm Mon-Thu, 11am-11pm Fri & Sat) A worthy pun as this place does indeed serve some of Frankfurt’s finest hot Worscht (known to non-Hessians as Wurst). The level of Schärfehölle (hellish hotness) goes up to FBI (Fucking Burning Injection).

Café Kante ( 499 0083; Kantstrasse 13; Merianplatz; breakfast €2.80-6.50; 7am-8pm Mon-Fri, 7am-7pm Sat, 8.30am-7pm Sun) Walk into this classic neighbourhood cafe and you’ll be overwhelmed by the delicious aroma of fantastic coffee, breads, cakes and croissants. Half a block east of Berger Strasse 48.

Eckhaus ( 491 197; Bornheimer Landstrasse 45; Merianplatz; mains €8-17.50; 5pm-midnight Mon-Thu, 5pm-1am Fri, 10am-1am Sat, 10am-midnight Sun) The smoke-stained walls and ancient floorboards suggest an inelegant, long-toothed past. We love this place, though others say the noise level saps their nerves. The hallmark Kartoffelrösti (shredded potato pancake; €9) has been served here for over 100 years.

Manolya ( 494 0162; Habsburger Allee 6; Höhenstrasse; mains €9.50-18.50; 5pm-1am Mon-Thu, 11am-2am Fri & Sat, 11am-midnight Sun) This well-regarded Turkish restaurant, opened in 1992, has a convivial atmosphere and outdoor seating.

Oma Rink’s Sterntaler ( 4056 2290; www.omarinks-sterntaler.de, in German; Musikantenweg 68; Merianplatz; mains from €9.80; 5pm-1am Mon-Fri, 5pm-2am Sat, 10am-midnight Sun) Outside there’s a beer garden, inside