Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [469]
THEATRE, CLASSICAL & DANCE
The Frankfurt theatre scene has all the hallmarks of high art – it bites back, it bitches, and occasionally an offended ego spontaneously and publicly explodes. There are over 30 different venues around town.
Tickets for operas, concerts, plays and sports events (except football) can be purchased from Frankfurt Ticket ( 134 0400; www.frankfurt-ticket.de, in German), which has a ticket outlet ( Hauptwache; 9.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-4pm Sat, longer hr Dec, shorter hr Jul & Aug) underground on the B Level of the Hauptwache U-Bahn/S-Bahn station, facing KFC.
Last-minute tickets can generally be purchased an hour or so before performance time at each venue’s Abendkasse (evening ticket window).
The city’s major cultural institutions include the Städtische Bühnen (www.buehnen-frankfurt.de, in German; Untermainanlage 11; Willy-Brandt-Platz), a huge cultural complex where you’ll find the Schauspiel Frankfurt (www.schauspielfrankfurt.de, in German), a theatre company, and Oper Frankfurt ( 134 0400; www.oper-frankfurt.de), the city’s main opera company. The Alte Oper (www.alteoper.de; Opernplatz 8; Alte Oper) puts on performances of classical music.
The quality of the English-language plays and musicals at the English Theatre ( 2423 1620; www.english-theatre.org; Kaiserstrasse 34, entrance on Gallusanlage; Willy-Brandt-Platz; tickets €21-44; season runs early Sep-early Jul, box office noon-6pm Mon, 11am-6.30pm Tue-Fri, 3-6.30pm Sat, 3-5pm Sun) is surprisingly high.
Bocken-heimer Depot ( 134 0400; www.bockenheimer-depot.de, in German; Carlo-Schmid-Platz 1, Bockenheim; Bocken-heimer Warte), a century-old former tram depot, hosts innovative dance productions by the Forsythe Company (www.theforsythecompany.com) as well as Städtische Bühnen theatre productions.
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Shopping
When it comes to shopping, Frankfurt is not Berlin, Paris or Milan. The strollable Zeil ( Hauptwache or Konstablerwache) is the main shopping precinct, but the really serious splurging takes place along Goethestrasse ( Hauptwache) and other streets just west of Goetheplatz, which are lined with the city’s priciest fashion boutiques and jewellery stores.
There’s a weekly flea market (Schaumainkai; Schweizerplatz; 8am-2pm Sat) located along the Museumsufer.
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Getting There & Away
AIR
Frankfurt Airport (FRA; 01805-372 4636; www.frankfurt-airport.com; Flughafen), 12km southwest of downtown, is Germany’s busiest airport, with the highest cargo turnover and the third-highest passenger numbers in Europe (after London’s Heathrow and Paris’ Charles de Gaulle).
Gates beginning with A, B and C are in Terminal 1, which is dominated by Lufthansa, while gates beginning with D and E are in the newer Terminal 2. The terminals are linked by a poorly signposted, driverless elevated railway, the Sky Line, which runs every two minutes. Terminal 3 is being built on land that was part of the American Rhein-Main Air Base, which closed in 2005.
The airport has two train stations deep below Terminal 1, Hall B. The Regionalbahnhof handles regional-train and S-Bahn connections; services begin at about 4.30am and end at 12.30am. The Fernbahnhof is used by long-haul IC/EC and ICE trains.
Lufthansa buses ( 01803-803 803; www.lufthansa-airportbus.com) link the airport with Heidelberg, Mannheim and Strasbourg (France).
Services available at the airport:
Hotels & Tours ( 6907 0402; www.airport-travelnet.com; Terminal 1, Arrival Hall B; 7am-10.30pm) Helps with hotel bookings.
Post office (Terminal 1, Departure Hall B; 7am-10pm)
ReiseBank Terminal 1, Departure level ( 6am-10pm); Terminal 1, entrance to Regionalbahnhof ( 6am-9pm) Exchanges currency.
Showers (Duschen; Terminal 1, Departure Hall B; €6 or US$8)
Tegut supermarket (Terminal 1, btwn Halls B & C; 6am-10pm) Hidden away one floor below the Arrival level.
If your flight,