Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [496]
Cologne is justifiably proud of its Domschatz-kammer (Cathedral Treasury; 1794 0300; adult/concession/family €4/2/8; 10am-6pm), whose reliquaries, robes, sculptures and liturgical objects are handsomely presented in medieval vaulted rooms. Standouts include a Gothic bishop’s staff from 1322 and a 15th-century sword.
ROMANESQUE CHURCHES
Cologne’s medieval heyday is reflected in its wealth of Romanesque churches, which were constructed between 1150 and 1250 and survived largely intact until WWII. About a dozen have been rebuilt since and offer many unique architectural and artistic features. Even if you’re pushed for time, try seeing at least a couple of the ones mentioned here.
Winning top honours for most handsome exterior is Gross St Martin (Map; 1642 5650; An Gross-St-Martin 9; 3-5pm Mon, 10am-noon & 3-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-12.30pm & 1.30-5pm Sat, 2-4pm Sun), whose ensemble of four slender turrets grouped around a central spire towers above Fischmarkt in the Altstadt. Its striking clover-leaf choir is an architectural feature pioneered by St Maria im Kapitol (Map; 214 615; Marienplatz 19; 9.30am-6pm), where major treasures include a carved door from the original 11th-century church and a spectacularly ornate Renaissance rood screen.
The most eccentric-looking church is St Gereon (Map; 134 922; Gereonskloster 2-4; 10am-2pm & 3-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-noon & 3-5pm Sat & Sun), which grew from a late-Roman chapel into a massive complex lidded by a decagonal dome decorated with delicate ribbed vaulting.
If you look at Cologne’s coat of arms, you’ll see what looks like 11 apostrophes but in fact represents the Christian martyrs St Ursula and 10 virgins. The church of St Ursula (Map; 133 400; Ursulaplatz 24; 10am-noon & 3-5pm Mon-Sat) stands atop the Roman graveyard where the virgins’ remains were allegedly found. In the 17th century, the richly ornamented baroque Goldene Kammer (Golden Chamber; adult/child €1/0.50) was built to house their relics.
ROMAN COLOGNE
Anyone even remotely interested in Roman history should not skip the extraordinary Römisch-Germanisches Museum (Romano-Germanic Museum; Map; 2212 4438; Roncalliplatz 4; adult/concession €8/4; 10am-5pm Tue-Sun), adjacent to the Dom. Sculptures and ruins displayed outside are merely the overture to a full symphony of Roman artefacts found along the Rhine. Highlights include the giant Poblicius tomb (AD 30–40), the magnificent 3rd-century Dionysus mosaic around which the museum was built, and astonishingly well-preserved glass items. Insight into daily Roman life is gained from such items as toys, tweezers, lamps and jewellery, the designs of which have changed surprisingly little since.
Plenty of remnants of the Roman city survive around the museum, including a street leading to the harbour and two wells. Other vestiges from the ancient settlement include a Roman arch (Map) from the former town wall outside the Dom and the Römerturm (Map), a tower standing among buildings at the corner of St-Apern-Strasse and Zeughausstrasse.
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HARBOUR REDUX
London has its Docklands, Düsseldorf its Medienhafen, Hamburg is building HafenCity and now Cologne has jumped on the revitalised-harbour bandwagon with the Rheinauhafen. South of the Altstadt an entire new urban quarter has sprung up along a 2km stretch between the Severinsbrücke and Südbrücke bridges. Dozens of 19th-century brick buildings are taking on a second life as luxe office, living and entertainment spaces, juxtaposed with contemporary designs ranging from bland to avant-garde. The most dramatic change to Cologne’s skyline comes courtesy of a trio of Kranhäuser (Crane Houses), huge inverted L-shaped structures that are an abstract interpretation of historic harbour cranes. There are a few shops, restaurants and cafes as well as a riverside promenade but, as with all projects of this type, it’ll