Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [504]
The larger and flashier of the two, Schloss Augustusburg ( 440 00; Schlossstrasse 6; tours adult/student/family €5/4.50/12; 9am-1pm & 1.30-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun, last admission 1hr before closing, closed Dec & Jan) is a little jewel box designed by François Cuvilliés. On guided tours you’ll learn fascinating titbits about hygiene, dating and other aspects of daily life at court. The architectural highlight is a ceremonial staircase by Balthasar Neumann, a dizzying symphony in stucco, sculpture and faux marble.
Cuvilliés also dreamed up Jagdschloss Falkenlust ( 440 00; Schlossstrasse 6; adult/concession/family €3.50/3/8; 9am-1pm & 1.30-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun, closed Dec & Jan), a hunting lodge where Clemens August liked to indulge his fancy for falconry. Though small, it’s almost as opulent as the main palace. A particular gem is the adjacent chapel, which is awash in shells, minerals and crystals.
A short stroll from the palaces is the Max Ernst Museum ( 579 3110; www.maxernstmuseum.com; Comesstrasse 42; adult/concession/family €5/3/10; 11am-6pm Tue-Sun), where nine rooms trace all creative phases of the Brühl-born Dadaist and surrealist (1891–1976). We especially enjoyed examples of his artistic innovations such as frottage (floor-board rubbings) and the spooky collage novels, which are graphic works exploring the darkest crevices of the subconscious.
Brühl’s other big drawcard is Phantasialand ( 362 00; www.phantasialand.de; Berggeiststrasse 31-41; adult/child €33.50/29.50; 9am-6pm Apr-Oct, last admission 4pm, extended hr possible in summer), one of Europe’s earliest, most popular and best Disneyland-style amusement parks (since 1967). The park has six themed areas – Chinatown, Old Berlin, Mexico, Fantasy, Mystery and Deep in Africa – each with their own roller coasters, gondolas, flight simulators, water rides and other thrills, plus song and dance shows. To be admitted as a child you have to be shorter than 145cm; if you’re younger than seven or it’s your birthday, admission is free.
Brühl is regularly served by regional trains from Cologne (€3.30, 15 minutes) and Bonn (€4.20, 10 minutes). The Hauptbahnhof is opposite Schloss Augustusburg, with the compact town centre behind the palace. Shuttle buses to Phantasialand leave from outside the station. If you’re driving, exit Brühl-Ost/Wesseling off the A553 or Godorf/Brühl off the A555, then follow the signs.
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BONN
0228 / pop 311,000
When this friendly, relaxed city on the Rhine became West Germany’s ‘temporary’ capital in 1949 it surprised many, including its own residents. When in 1991 a reunited German government decided to move to Berlin, it shocked many, especially its own residents. A generation later, no-one need feel sorry for Bonn. Change brings opportunity, and rather than plunge into the dark depths of provincialism, the ex-capital has reinvented itself with creativity and vigour. Its cosmopolitan openness has attracted an international cast of businesses, students, scientists and UN organisations. Bonn’s progressive outlook is also reflected in its launch of a sustainability initiative, which ropes in hotels, caterers, venues and other businesses in an effort to create a ‘conference location of sustainability’.
For visitors, the birthplace of Ludwig van Beethoven has plenty in store, not least the great composer’s birth house, a string of top-rated museums, a lovely riverside setting and the nostalgic flair of the old government quarter. Bonn can be seen on an easy day trip from Cologne but also makes for an excellent jumping-off point to the Siebengebirge nature reserve and other area attractions.
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Orientation
Cologne Bonn Airport is about 25km northeast of the city centre (Click here for information on getting to/from the airport).