Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [507]
Nordstadt is also home of the Frauenmuseum (Women’s Museum; 691 344; www.frauenmuseum.de; Im Krausfeld 10; adult/concession €4.50/3; 2-6pm Tue-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun), which supports and showcases the art of women through exhibits, lectures, readings and performances.
POPPELSDORF & AROUND
South of the Altstadt, elegant and leafy Poppelsdorf is anchored by Schloss Poppelsdorf, another electoral palace now used by the university. Students and neighbourhood folk populate the bars and restaurants along Clemens-August-Strasse, which runs south of the palace towards the hillside Kreuzberg-kirche (Stationsweg 21; 9am-6pm Apr-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar). This rococo gem is lavishly decorated with gilded faux marble, frescoes and a Balthasar Neumann–designed version of the Holy Steps.
Fans of Robert Schumann (1810–56) might enjoy the small memorial exhibit in the Schumannhaus ( 773 656; Sebastianstrasse 182; admission free; 11am-1.30pm & 3-6pm Mon & Wed-Fri). It’s in the former sanatorium he checked into following a suicide attempt in 1854. He and his wife Clara are buried in Alter Friedhof (Old Cemetery) on Bornheimer Strasse in the Nordstadt, as is Beethoven’s mother Maria Magdalena.
DOPPELKIRCHE SCHWARZRHEINDORF
Across the river in the suburb of Schwarz-rheindorf, the 12th-century Doppelkirche Schwarzrheindorf ( 461 609; Dixstrasse 41; 9am-6.30pm Tue-Sat, 11.30am-6.30pm Sun, upper church Sat & Sun only) is a magnificent ‘double church’ where the nobility sat on the upper level and the parishioners on the lower. The beautiful Romanesque architecture is impressive, as is the restored Old Testament fresco cycle in the lower church. Take bus 550 or 640 from the Hauptbahnhof to Schwarzrheindorf-Kirche.
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Tours
The tourist office runs two English-language tours. The Big City Tour (adult/concession €15/7.50; 2pm daily Apr-Nov, less frequently Dec-Mar) is a combined 2½-hour bus and walking tour. The Altstadt Walking Tour (adult/concession €7/4; 11am daily mid-Aug–Oct, 11am Sat & Sun May–mid-Aug, 3pm Sat Jun-Oct) takes 1½ hours.
Beethoven fans with a DIY streak can follow in their idol’s footsteps, either via a free Beethoven Walk pamphlet or a one-hour MP3 audio tour (€5.90), both available at the tourist office (passport required).
Boats heading upriver to Königswinter and beyond leave from the Alter Zoll landing docks at the Brassertufer between April and October. Bonner Personen Schiffahrt ( 0228-636 363; www.b-p-s.de) and KD ( 0221-208 8318; www.k-d.com) are the main operators.
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Sleeping
For phone bookings, call 0180-500 3365 or 910 4178; for online bookings go to www.bonn-region.de. Rates skyrocket during trade shows, while bargains are possible in summer and at weekends.
DJH hostel ( 289 970; www.bonn.jugendherberge.de; Haager Weg 42; dm €25.30, s €43-51, tw €63-70; ) Bonn’s modern hostel is about 4km south of the city centre next to a nature park. From the Hauptbahnhof, take bus 600 to Jugendherberge.
Hotel Pastis ( 969 4270; www.hotel-pastis.de, in German; Hatschiergasse 8; s/d €60/95) This little hotel-restaurant combo is so fantastically French, you’ll feel like the Eiffel Tower is just around the corner. After dining on unfussy gourmet cuisine – paired with great wines, bien sûr – you’ll sleep like a baby in snug, cosy rooms.
Hotel Löhndorf ( 634 726; www.hotel-loehndorf-bonn.de; Stockenstrasse 6; s/d from €65/95; ) This 13-room (all non-smoking) property is wonderfully quiet despite being close to the Hofgarten and the Rhine. The cheery breakfast room and the bamboo-lined patio are great for munching your morning croissants. Bonus: a handy honour bar in the lounge and free access to the adjacent gym and sauna.
Altes Treppchen ( 625 004; www.treppchen.de, in German; Endenicher