Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [520]
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Sleeping
The tourist office makes free room reservations – call 1899 9111.
Ibis Dortmund City ( 185 770; www.ibishotel.com; Märkische Strasse 73; r from €59; ) This is one of the nicer contenders in this good-value chain. It’s a 10-minute walk from the city centre and has a supermarket on the premises and a beer garden nearby.
Hotel Fürst Garden ( 477 3210; www.hotelfuerstgarden.de; Beurhausstrasse 57; s/d €70/90; ) A bit outside the city centre, but not far from the stadium, this newly spiffed up 16-room place is cosy and mod in cheerful shades. The bathrooms are tiny but rooms have all the expected amenities and the breakfast is a generous spread best enjoyed in the charming garden.
Cityhotel Dortmund ( 477 9660; www.cityhoteldortmund.de; Silberstrasse 37-43; s/d €83/103, breakfast €10; ) A mousy grey facade hides this jewel of a hotel where a palette evoking the ocean, sun and sand gives rooms and public areas a cheerful and fresh look. Non-smoking rooms facing the courtyard are quietest, but noise isn’t really an issue here.
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Eating & Drinking
Dortmund brims with pubs and restaurants, making it ideal for sampling the local brews and cuisine. Centres of action include the lively Brückstrassenviertel around the Konzerthaus, the area between Alter Markt and Kleppingstrasse and the alt-flavoured Kreuzviertel (U42 to Möllerbrücke).
BarRock ( 206 3221; Kreuzstrasse 87; dishes €5-13; 5pm-1am Mon-Fri, 1pm-3am Sat, 10am-1am Sun) Painted cherubs frolicking on the ceiling survey the scene at this charismatic neighbourhood cafe in the Kreuzviertel. The food – baguettes to roast chicken – is a perfect counterbalance to the potent cocktails.
Stravinski ( 5844 9850; Brückstrasse 21; small plates €5-10, mains €14-25; lunch & dinner) Right by the Konzerthaus, this stylish restaurant gets rushed for pre- and post-performance nosh frenzies. The menu is creative feel-good food, from small plates of antipasti to rump steak with herbed polenta.
Hövel’s Hausbrauerei ( 914 5470; Hoher Wall 5-7; mains €8-15; 11am-midnight Sun-Thu, 11am-1am Fri & Sat) This is a brew-pub for the 21st century – rustic yet infused with a touch of style. The menu is custom-made for hardcore meat lovers (try the suckling pig or the roast pork knuckle) washed down with the libation of choice, the tasty house-brewed Bitterbier.
Ristorante Bei Marija ( 751 9571; Am Beilstück 48; mains €10-22; 6pm-midnight Tue-Sat) Like an embrace from an old friend, Marija is warm and welcoming. The place looks like an overstuffed living room, the owner is a character and the Italian country fare is mouth-watering. It’s way off the tourist track; catch the U42 to An der Palmweide. Reservations advised.
Other chow spots:
Rigoletto ( 150 4431; Kleppingstrasse 9-11; mains €7-16; 8.30am-1am Mon-Fri, 8.30am-3am Sat, 10am-midnight Sun) High-energy bistro with Mediterranean classics, operatic decor and a see-and-be-seen crowd.
Zum Alten Markt ( 572 217; Markt 3; mains €8-14; 11am-midnight Mon-Sat, 3pm-midnight Sun) Traditional Westphalian fare served in belt-loosening portions.
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Entertainment
Domicil ( 862 9030; www.domicil-dortmund.de; Hansa-strasse 7-11) The booking policy at this legendary music club in a former cinema is top-notch, with quality jazz, world and avant-garde acts featuring both promising newcomers and bona fide greats.
FZW (www.fzw.de, in German; Ritterstrasse 20) Generations of Dortmunders have partied at this legendary club that recently moved to new digs near the Dortmunder U Click here. Catch tomorrow’s headliners live in the big hall or get down to a ‘Happy Feet’ inducing dance mix in the club.
Konzerthaus Dortmund ( 2269 6200; www.konzerthaus-dortmund.de; Brückstrasse 21) This snazzy steel-and-glass concert hall is home base of Dortmund’s Philharmonic Orchestra and is also a stopover for top-flight international guest performers.
Borussia