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Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [525]

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Münster’s finest churches, the late-Gothic St Lambertikirche ( 448 93; 8am-6.45pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-7pm Sun), built in 1450. See those three wrought-iron cages dangling from the openwork spire? They once displayed the corpses of the Anabaptist leader Jan van Leyden and his cohorts after they were defeated in 1535 by troops of the prince-bishop. Before their execution, the trio was publicly tortured with red-hot tongs – now displayed 400m away at the Stadtmuseum (City Museum; 492 4503; Salzstrasse 28; admission free; 10am-6pm Tue-Fri, 11am-6pm Sat & Sun) – then stuck in the cages and hoisted onto the church as a deterrent to others.

Just south of Prinzipalmarkt is the Münster Arkaden, a small and elegant shopping mall with striking marble flooring and a central glass dome.


BAROQUE BUILDINGS

The architect who left his mark on Münster more than any other was Johann Conrad Schlaun (1695–1773). He was a master of the Westphalian baroque, a more subdued, less exuberant expression of the style than in southern Germany. A most exquisite example of Schlaun’s vision is the 1757 Erbdrostenhof (Salzstrasse 38), a lavish private mansion. Nearby, the equally stunning 1753 Clemenskirche (Klemensstrasse) boasts a domed ceiling-fresco supported by turquoise faux-marble pillars. Less pristinely preserved is the 1773 Schloss (Schlossplatz), the former residence of the prince-bishops and now the main university building.


HAFENVIERTEL

A 10-minute walk southeast of the Hauptbahnhof takes you to the Hafenviertel, Münster’s revitalised old harbour. What were once derelict halls and brick warehouses have been updated with avant-garde architectural elements and now house a theatre, artist studios and offices alongside an eclectic mixture of restaurants, bars and dance clubs. You can promenade along the waterfront or watch cargo barges cutting along the Dortmund-Ems canal. In summer, there’s even swimming in the canal. To get to the Hafenviertel, exit the Hauptbahnhof to the east via Bremer Platz, follow Bremer Strasse south, cross Hansaring and it will be on your left.


AASEE

Southwest of the Altstadt, the Aasee is another recreational getaway. Come for a picnic by the lake, a stroll along its promenade or to take your sweetie for a spin on the water itself. Family-friendly attractions include the Mühlenhof ( 981 200; Theo-Breider-Weg 1; adult/child/student/family €4/2/2.50/10; 10am-6pm Apr-Sep, 11am-4pm Oct-Feb, closed Sat Nov-Feb), an open-air museum where you can stroll among historical Westphalian buildings, including a mill and bakery. Dinosaurs and the universe are the stars at the Naturkundemuseum & Planetarium (Natural History Museum; 591 05; Sentruper Strasse 285; museum adult/concession €3.50/2, planetarium €4/2, both €6.20/3.10; 9am-6pm Tue-Sun), while highlights of the Allwetterzoo ( 890 40; Sentruper Strasse 315; adult/concession €12.50/6.30; 9am-6pm Apr-Sep, 9am-5pm Oct & Mar, 9am-4pm Nov-Feb) include the dolphin tank and the horse museum with fun exhibits on the region’s equestrian heritage.


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Sleeping

The tourist office operates a reservation hotline ( 492 2726; 8am-10pm).

Sleep Station ( 482 8155; www.sleep-station.de; Wolbecker Strasse 1; dm €16-22, linen €3, s/d €40/52; ) Münster’s very own backpacker hostel is just 200m from the Hauptbahnhof above an erotic store (no worries, it’s perfectly safe). Dorms are clean but basic and sleep three to eight; only a few singles and doubles have private bathrooms. Perks include free coffee and tea and kitchen use. Check-in is from 8am to 12.30pm and 5pm to 9pm.

Factory Hotel ( 418 80; www.factoryhotel.de; An der Germania Brauerei 5; r €80-150; ) This sleek new design hotel magically marries the historical with the contemporary in buildings of the defunct Germania Brewery. Gear up for the day in large and modern rooms that get texture from wood, leather and concrete and come with a balcony overlooking an artificial lake. Entertainment zones include three restaurants, a lounge and a club. It’s about 2km north of the city centre.

Central Hotel ( 510

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