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QUICK EATS & SELF-CATERING

Markthalle ( 341 410; Kamarschstrasse 49; dishes €3.50-8; 7am-8pm Mon-Wed, to 10pm Thu & Fri, to 4pm Sat; ) This huge covered market of food stalls and gourmet delicatessens is fantastic for a quick bite, both carnivorous and vegetarian.

Os Amigos ( 363 665; Ernst-August-Galerie; tapas €2.50-6.90, mains €6.90-12.50; 8am-8.45pm Mon-Sat; ) This Spanish place is one of several inexpensive options alongside Hauptbahnhof inside the large shopping centre.

denn’s Biomarkt ( 215 7866; Marktstrasse 45; 8.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-8pm Sat; ) A large organic supermarket, denn’s has everything from fruit and vegies to wines, aquaculture fish and meats – perfect for a wholesome picnic in Eilenriede forest or on the Maschsee.

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Drinking

CAFES

Der Gartensaal ( 1684 8888; Neues Rathaus, Trammplatz 2; coffee with cake €5; 11am-10pm mid-May–mid-Sep, to 6pm mid-Sep–mid-May) A great place to sit and have a summer afternoon coffee overlooking the central Stadtpark.

Holländische Kakaostube ( 304 100; Ständehausstrasse 2-3; hot chocolate with cake €5; 9am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6.30pm Sat) With the blue-and-white square-patterned floor matching the Delft pottery, and a curved ship’s staircase and maritime paintings creating a subtle nautical feel, this historic Dutch coffee house has many fans, young and old.

BARS

Many of the cultural centres, clubs and rock and jazz venues listed under Entertainment are also good places to go just for a drink.

Brauhaus Ernst August ( 365 950; Schmiedestrasse 13; 8am-3am Sun-Thu, 8am-5am Fri & Sat; ) A Hanover institution, this sprawling brewpub makes a refreshing unfiltered Pilsner called Hannöversch. A party atmosphere reigns nightly, helped along by a varied roster of live bands and DJs.

Café Mezzo ( 314 966; Lister Meile 4; 9am-2am Sun-Thu, 9am-3am Fri & Sat; ) Inside the Pavillon (opposite), this classic bar and cafe used to be a student hang-out, but today Mezzo gets a balance of ages. It’s popular any time of day (including for breakfast), but doubles well as a place to warm up in the evening before moving on to a club or performance.

HeimW ( 235 2301; Theaterstrasse 6; 9am-1am Mon-Thu & Sun, 9am-2am Fri & Sat) This long, narrow bar has lights shaped like huge droplets of water about to land on your head, an atrium ceiling, potted palms beside cream leather banquettes, and intriguing artwork on the walls. Salads, breakfast and light meals are also served (€5 to €9.50).

Acanto ( 391 030; Dragonerstrasse 28; from 8pm Thu-Sat) Next door to the restaurant Basil, you’ll find one of Hanover’s trendiest DJ bars, where fashionably dressed beautiful people sip caipirinhas under chandeliers and mirror balls. Take tram 1 or 2 to Dragonerstrasse.

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Entertainment

For listings, check out the local edition of Prinz, in German.

NIGHTCLUBS

Hanover has two main clusters of clubs and bars. One place to head for is the red-light district of Steintor (cheekily nicknamed Stöhntor by locals, meaning ‘Moaning Gate’), in a former strip- and sex-club stronghold. All these have free admission and are close together, so you can look in and take your pick.

Eve Klub (www.eve-klub.de, in German; Reuterstrasse 3-4; from 9pm Thu, from 10pm Fri & Sat; ) is a former striptease bar that has kept the red lamps over the tables and red corduroy sofas; the Kiez Klub ( 353 5699; www.kiez-klub.de, in German; Scholvinstrasse 5; from 10pm Wed, Fri & Sat) has minimal house, techno house and electro house, situated in a yard off the street; while Sansibar (www.sansibar-hannover.eu, in German; Scholvinstrasse 7; from noon Mon-Sat) has soul and classics for 30-somethings. Intensivstation ( 301 59; Scholvinstrasse 9; from 8pm Fri & Sat, plus some Wed & Thu; ) has staff dressed as nurses and medically themed surrounds – kinky.

Traditionally, the other main clubbing destination is in the revamped environs of Raschplatz (the so-called ‘golden triangle’) behind the train station. Here