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Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [547]

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€19.10/22.10; ) Although there’s not a lot of space in the dorms or bathrooms, this hostel enjoys excellent river views out the back. Take bus 2 from the Hauptbahnhof to Wehler Weg.

Hotel Garni Altstadtwiege ( 278 54; www.hotel-altstadtwiege.de; Neue Marktstrasse 10; s €36-47, d €60-90; ) This unprepossessing red-brick building contains charming, individually decorated rooms. The singles are narrow and get stuffy at night but the doubles are large and some have stained-glass windows – No 14 even has a four-poster bed.

Hotel-Garni Christinenhof ( 950 80; www.christinenhof-hameln.de, in German; Alte Marktstrasse 18; s/d €70/90; ) Historic on the outside, but totally modern in attitude, this hotel likes to pamper its guests, providing a small swimming pool in the vaulted cellar, a sauna, a generous buffet breakfast and compact but uncluttered rooms. High-speed internet is via the power sockets.

Hotel La Principessa ( 956 920; www.laprincipessa.de; Kupferschmiedestrasse 2; s €72, d €90-99; ) Cast-iron balustrades, tiled floors throughout and gentle Tuscan pastels and ochre shades make this Italian-themed hotel an unusual and distinguished option in Hamelin. A junior suite (€110) even has a whirlpool bath, and the buildings – with 30 rooms in all – have been completely restored and raised to modern environmental standards. Out the back are some giant rats for the kids to mess with.

Mexcal ( 428 06; Osterstrasse 15; mains €5.60-14.80; noon-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; ) Most dishes cost €8 to €12 in this cavernous restaurant where you are greeted with a complimentary bowl of tortilla chips and dip, and can fill up on generous portions of decent Tex-Mex. Lone diners will feel comfortable here.

Rattenfängerhaus ( 3888; Osterstrasse 28; mains €9-22; lunch & dinner Mon-Thu, 10am-10pm Fri-Sun; ) Hamelin’s traditional restaurants are unashamedly aimed at tourists, such as this cute half-timbered tavern with a speciality of ‘rats’ tails’ flambéed at your table (fortunately, like most of the theme dishes here, it’s based on pork). Schnitzels, herrings, vegie dishes and ‘rat killer’ herb liquor are also offered.


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Getting There & Around

Frequent S-Bahn trains (S5) head to Hamelin from Hanover’s Hauptbahnhof (€10.30, 45 minutes). Regular direct trains connect Hanover’s airport with Hamelin (€13.30, one hour). By car, take the B217 to/from Hanover. See Getting There & Away on Click here earlier in this section for bus and boat links.

Bikes can be hired from the Jugendwerkstatt Hameln ( 609 770; Ruthenstrasse 10; per day €4; 7am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat May-Sep, 7.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-noon Sat Oct-Apr).

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SOMETHING SPECIAL

Schlosshotel Münchhausen ( 05154-706 00; www.schlosshotel-muenchhausen.com; Schwöbber 9, Aerzen bei Hameln; s/d in Tithe barn from €105/135, in castle from €135/170, ste €345-445; ), 15km outside Hamelin, is worth staying at if you’re driving through this region. As the name implies, it’s set in a castle – the rooms are stylish and contemporary with historic touches, while the suites have tasteful period furnishings. Rooms in the adjacent Tithe barn are entirely modern. Two restaurants, one in the castle cellar with a traditional focus and the other Mediterranean, as well as spa facilities and two golf courses set in 8 hectares of parkland round off this luxurious option.

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BODENWERDER

05533 / pop 5800

If Bodenwerder’s most famous son were to have described his small hometown, he’d probably have painted it as a huge, thriving metropolis on the Weser River. But then Baron Hieronymous von Münchhausen (1720–97) was one of history’s most shameless liars. He gave his name to a psychological condition – Münchhausen’s syndrome, or compulsive exaggeration of physical illness – and inspired the cult film of British comedian Terry Gilliam, The Adventures of Baron Munchausen.

Bodenwerder’s principal attraction is the Münchhausen Museum ( 409 147; Münchhausenplatz 1; adult/child €2/1.50; 10am-5pm Apr-Oct), which struggles

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