Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [560]
HERZOG ANTON ULRICH MUSEUM
Braunschweig is not only about Heinrich der Löwe. Another duke, Anton Ulrich (1633–1714) left Braunschweig with an impressive legacy too. Like Bruce Chatwin’s compulsive collector Utz, Anton Ulrich had an eye for miniature porcelain figures – as well as for crockery, furniture and all types of painting, from Chinese to European. Now the thousands of pieces he assembled in his lifetime are found in the Herzog Anton Ulrich Museum ( 122 50; www.museum-braunschweig.de, in German; Museumstrasse 1; adult/concession incl Burg Dankwarderode €3/1.50; 10am-5pm Tue & Thu-Sun, 1-8pm Wed). Artefacts, including an ancient Roman onyx cup that survived some escapades through the years, and the most complete museum collection of Fürstenburg porcelain anywhere, are here. Unfortunately, lack of funding often means that opening times for different floors are staggered (as at Burg Dankwarderode), so ring ahead.
LANDESMUSEUM
The city’s Landesmuseum (State Museum; 121 50; Burgplatz; adult/concession €2.50/1.30; 10am-5pm Tue, Wed & Fri-Sun, to 8pm Thu) covers German history from a regional perspective. Although the descriptions are only in German, the museum has lots of engaging exhibits that speak for themselves, starting with a large Foucault pendulum illustrating the principle of the Earth’s rotation, and augmented by a myriad of artefacts assembled chronologically to tell the story of Germany’s past. It is a fascinating museum, not least because of eclectic objects like the strands of hair allegedly belonging to Heinrich der Löwe and Mathilde. They are in cases of silver, gold and marble, specially constructed in 1935 as part of Hitler’s propaganda offensive to present Heinrich posthumously as one of his own.
OLD TOWN
Of the several market places in Braunschweig, each representing an original township, the Altstadtmarkt is arguably the most appealing, with the step-gabled Renaissance Gewandhaus (built 1303; facade redesigned 1590) and the Gothic Altstadt Rathaus. Inside the Rathaus is the magnificent Dronse meeting hall. The tourist office can help with individual details on other buildings.
Kids will like the playful cats statue on the corner of Damm and Kattreppeln and the lovely Till Eulenspiegel Brunnen at Bäckerklint, with Till sitting above owls and monkeys.
MAGNIVIERTEL
Don’t miss this arty precinct–cum–traditional quarter around the 11th-century Magnikirche (Am Magnitor). Restaurants and bars have colonised the area’s many restored half-timbered houses and there are some great boutique stores.
Particularly eye-catching is the Happy Rizzi House (Ackerhof, cnr Georg-Eckert-Strasse & Schlossstrasse), which is actually three colourful buildings decorated by American pop artist James Rizzi. Hearts are a recurring theme on the facade, while curved windows form integral parts of facial murals.
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Sleeping
Braunschweig has few budget options and no youth hostel, so ask the tourist office about private rooms.
Hotel Café am Park ( 730 79; www.hotel-cafeampark.de; Wolfenbüttler Strasse 67; s/d/tr €60/80/91; ) This pleasant Hotel Garni is near the Bürgerpark (take tram M2 to stop ‘Bürgerpark’) to the south of town and relatively handy for the train station. It has cheaper rooms without showers and toilets.
Frühlings-Hotel ( 243 210; www.fruehlingshotel.de; Bankplatz 7; s €68-135, d €88-185; ) Friendly staff with a good sense of humour, a stylish ground floor with reception and guest lounge, plus three categories of pleasant bedrooms, make this an excellent choice. Some of the cheaper accommodation on the top floor hasn’t been refurbished but has good rooftop views.
Stadthotel Magnitor ( 471 30; www.stadthotel-magni.de; Am Magnitor 1; s €75-85, d €110-120; ) Behind the historic black-and-white facade are carefully thought-out rooms with designer touches. The colours are low-key and furnishings keep things chic by rarely straying from the white, grey and black theme. Two or three rooms have very low ceilings. To cap it all, the place has a trendy bar and restaurant,