Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [563]
However, it’s the Herzog August Bibliothek ( 808 214; www.hab.de; Lessingplatz 1; adult/concession €3/2; 10am-5pm Tue-Sun), across the square, that will most interest bibliophiles. Not only is this hushed place one of the world’s best reference libraries for 17th-century books (if you’re a member that is), its collection of 800,000 volumes also includes what’s billed as the ‘world’s most expensive book’ (€17.50 million). This is the Welfen Evangelial, a gospel book once owned by Heinrich der Löwe. The original is only on show sporadically, as taking it out inevitably causes slight damage. However, an impressive facsimile is permanently displayed in the vault on the 1st floor.
From Schlossplatz, the walk suggested in the brochure continues east along Löwenstrasse to Krambuden and north up Kleiner Zimmerhof to Klein Venedig (Little Venice), one of the few tangible remnants of the extensive canal system built by Dutch workers in Wolfenbüttel in the late 16th century. From there the brochure continues to guide you past historic courtyards, buildings and squares. The entire walk takes around one hour (2km), excluding visits.
Return to beginning of chapter
Getting There & Away
Trains connect Wolfenbüttel with Braun-schweig’s Hauptbahnhof (€3.20, 10 minutes) twice an hour.
Return to beginning of chapter
WOLFSBURG
05361 / pop 120,000
Arriving in Wolfsburg by train, the first thing you see is an enormous, almost surreal, VW emblem on a building in a scene that could have come from Fritz Lang’s classic film Metropolis. This is part of the Volkswagen company’s nation-sized global headquarters. Wolfsburg is indeed a company town, and because of this it also has an earthy, working-class atmosphere that sets it apart from any other cities in the region.
Volkswagen is one of the world’s most profitable and successful automotive manufacturers, and although it has been shedding employees locally over the past decade, about 40% of Wolfsburg still works for it. The company is even staking a claim to become the world’s largest car manufacturer, currently producing 11% of the world’s passenger vehicles. Wolfsburg is trying to diversify though, and tourism is seen as one way. As well as the hugely successful Autostadt theme park, the town boasts a Phaeno science centre, a sleek piece of futuristic architecture by celebrity architect Zaha Hadid.
Return to beginning of chapter
Orientation
Wolfsburg’s centre is just southeast of the Hauptbahnhof. Head diagonally left out of the train station to the partly pedestrianised main drag, Porschestrasse, and continue south. The Phaeno centre is impossible to miss, just to the left of the station. To get to Autostadt, walk under Phaeno and continue until you see the stairs across the railway tracks. These lead to the theme park.
Return to beginning of chapter
Information
Babylon Tele- and Internet Shop (Porschestrasse 23; per hr €1.20; 9am-midnight Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun) Internet access.
Main post office (Porschestrasse 22-24; 8.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)
Wolfsburg tourist office ( 899 930; www.wolfsburg.de; Willy Brandt-Platz 3; 9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun) In the train station. Books hotels and has maps.
Return to beginning of chapter
Sights & Activities
AUTOSTADT
Spread across 25 hectares, Autostadt (Car City; 0800-288 678 238; www.autostadt.de, in German; Stadtbrücke; adult/child/concession/family €15/6/12/38; 9am-6pm) is a celebration of all things VW. Conceived as a luxury centre for customers to collect new vehicles, it soon developed into a theme park with broad family appeal.
Things kick off with a broad view of automotive design and engineering in the Konzernforum, while the neighbouring Zeithaus looks back at the history of the Beetle (see the boxed text, Click here) and other VW models. Then, in various outlying pavilions you can learn more about individual