Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [572]
Just north of Heger Tor and Felix-Nussbaum-Haus you find the 28m-high Bucksturm (Bocksturm; 323 2152; Bocksmauer; adult/concession €3/1; 11am-5pm Sun), built as a watchtower inside the town wall in the 13th century and later used as a prison. Then, in the 16th and 17th centuries, those accused of being witches were tortured here. Today, it has an exhibition on the persecution of ‘witches’, explaining why and how it took place.
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Sleeping
The free city map from the tourist office and DB Service Point has hotels marked and numbered. Ask the tourist office about camping, about 5km northeast of town.
Penthouse Backpackers ( 600 9606; www.penthousebp.com; Möserstrasse 19; dm €14-16, s €28-32, d €36-40; ) The furniture looks like it’s been cobbled together from friends of the owner (because it has been!) and check-in is only from 8am to 11am and 5pm to 8pm (so call ahead), yet you can’t beat the warmth of the welcome here. Handily located for the train station, this 4th-floor establishment has a kitchen, big guest lounge room, a sauna and a leafy terrace great for summer barbecues.
Intour Hotel ( 963 860; www.intourhotel.de; Maschstrasse 10; s €45-55, d €75-90; ) Situated just outside the historic centre and handy to Felix-Nussbaum-Haus (see opposite), this hotel looks unprepossessing from the outside but is modern, cosy and immaculately clean inside. Above all, it is fantastic value and a 10-minute walk to the eating and drinking spots in the lively Heger-Tor-Viertel. Take buses 31, 32 or 33 to Weissenburgstrasse from the train station or Neuer Markt.
Dom Hotel ( 358 350; www.dom-hotel-osnabrueck.de; Kleine Domsfreiheit 5; s €57-75, d €87-97, tr €111; ) Rooms here are comfortable and cheery in Mediterranean yellowy-orange, but they don’t exude bags of atmosphere. That’s left to the friendly owner, who always seems ready to help and chat, even when busy.
Advena Hotel Hohenzollern ( 331 70; www.advenahotels.com; Theodor-Heuss-Platz 5; s €76-90, d €116-155; ) You won’t have to stray far from the trains for one of the 113 rooms in this hotel – it is opposite the train station and therefore especially convenient for business and conference guests. But it also has a few surprises (which you wouldn’t guess from the outside): functional but nevertheless pleasant rooms, an even more pleasant 8m-or-so pool and a sauna area (free), and an (unaffiliated) fitness space allowing guests use of workout facilities for €6 per day.
Romantik Hotel Walhalla ( 349 10; www.hotel-walhalla.de; Bierstrasse 24; s €89-100, d €110-125, ste €295-350; ) If you’re looking for historic atmosphere, this hotel has it aplenty. The half that’s housed in a traditional half-timbered building has higgledy-piggledy rooms with low-beamed ceilings and rustic features. Even rooms in the more modern half continue the theme. Wi-fi is expensive but you can plug your laptop into the high-speed internet connection in the foyer.
Steigenberger Hotel Remarque ( 609 60; www.osnabrueck.steigenberger.de, in German; Natruper-Tor-Wall 1; s €82-219, d €99-335; ) Overlooking the old town from a small hill, this modern four-star hotel offers the unusual combination of quiet and convenience. A glass lift takes you up to tasteful rooms decorated in Mediterranean-style sienna and blues, with portraits and mementos of Erich Maria Remarque dotted around. Prices are subject mainly to current demand, so check the web or call.
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Eating & Drinking
Ichiban Sushi Chami ( 259 9504; Kamp 80; sushi €0.50-2.50, sushi combinations €6.80-17.50; 11am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat; ) It took some time for sushi to make a landing in Osnabrück, and this excellent eat-in and takeaway place was the first to touch ground. It is popular with workers and students alike, and with those taking a break from reading