Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [574]
However, only in 1987 was this likely candidate for the site of the so-called ‘Battle of Teutoberg Forest’ uncovered near Kalkriese. In 2000, the battlefield was opened as an archaeological park to display the Germans’ dirt ramparts and explain how they did it. Two years later, a funky steel-clad museum was built by famous Swiss architectural duo Annette Gigon and Mike Guyer. In 2009 a new Visitor Center by the same architects was unveiled, and part of this building is used for changing exhibitions. Also in 2009, two millennia after the Battle of Teutoberg, an inaugural exhibition was held on the theme ‘Conflict’, which focused on why the Germanic tribes were so successful in battle against the Romans. Meanwhile, a permanent exhibition in a 40m rectangular tower from 2002 has also been revamped, and here you can find so-called Schlachtschrott (battle debris) such as battle masks, bells, spearheads and other finds.
The surrounding park and battlefield features three quirky pavilions, called ‘seeing’, ‘hearing’ and ‘questioning’. Using a camera obscura, huge ear trumpet and video technology respectively, they give you a quirky perspective on the battlefield.
Unless you have your own car, you must plan your visit to Kalkriese carefully, as bus services are sparse. Take bus X275 from Osnabrück’s main train station (€3.20, 50 minutes). Sometimes you will need to change at Herringhausen Leckermühle, but the bus driver will make an announcement. Check return bus times when you arrive. If you come in summer, there’s a restaurant and beer garden where you can while away any waiting time.
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OLDENBURG
0441 / pop 159,500
Being shuffled between Danish and German rule has left the relaxed capital of the Weser-Ems region with a somewhat difficult-to-pin-down identity. Most of its medieval buildings were destroyed in a huge fire in 1676, while others were later refashioned at various stages according to the prevailing architectural style of the time. Count Peter Friedrich Ludwig began redecorating the town in a neoclassical style in 1785, evidence of which still survives in the Schlosspark, its promenade and other nearby buildings.
Today it’s principally a business destination, but you might make a day-trip from Bremen if you’re a mummy fan, or stop over on the way to the East Frisian Islands.
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Orientation
Oldenburg’s pedestrianised core is bounded by Heiligengeistwall to the north, Theaterwall to the west and Schlosswall to the south. Turn right after you exit from the ‘Stadtmitte’ side of the Hauptbahnhof (Bahnhof Sud), which takes you along Moslestrasse. Turn left into Osterstrasse, which takes you to Achternstrasse in the city centre. Turn left and continue until you come to the Markt. The tourist office is in a street one block northwest of this; look for the signs.
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Information
Main post office (Bahnhofsplatz 10; 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)
Oldenburg Tourismus ( 3616 1366; www.oldenburg-tourist.de; Kleine Kirchenstrasse 14; 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat) Has maps and accommodation guides that are also available from the DB Service Point inside the train station.
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Sights
The pale-yellow Renaissance-baroque Schloss (1607) at the southern end of the Altstadt shopping district (on Schlossplatz, just south of the Markt) was once home to the counts and dukes of Oldenburg. Part of the same family governed Denmark briefly in the 15th century.
Inside is the Landesmuseum für Kunst und Kulturgeschichte (Museum of Art & Cultural History; 220 7300; www.landesmuseum-oldenburg.niedersachsen.de, in German; adult/concession incl Augusteum & Prinzenpalais €3/1.50; 9am-5pm Tue, Wed &