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1; adult/child under 12yr €6/free; 10am-6pm Tue-Sun) is another highlight. This has an interesting and varied collection illustrating themes of local history and life in the region. Not surprisingly, its picture gallery has a strong focus on Dutch artists. In the late 16th century a large number of Protestant Dutch fled to Emden to escape religious persecution in the Spanish-ruled low countries, and ships even set out from Emden, the so-called ‘Sea Beggars’, to prey on Spanish and Dutch trading vessels. Glass painting established itself here during that time, and later the Emden-born painter Ludolf Backhuysen returned to work here. Today his work forms the backbone of the picture gallery. Other sections of the museum cover the Frisian coast and cartography, prehistory and 20th-century landscape painting; a highlight is a stunning collection of armour.

The labyrinth of WWII civilian air-raid shelters at the Bunkermuseum ( 322 25; www.bunkermuseum.de, in German; Holzsägerstrasse; adult/child €2/1; 10am-1pm & 3-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat & Sun May-Oct) includes testimonies from those who sheltered here, offering a moving insight into part of recent history.

Harbour cruises run by EMS ( 890 70; www.ag-ems.de, in German) leave several times daily between early April and late October from the Delfttreppe steps in the harbour (adult/child €6.90/3). The company also runs services to the East Frisian Island of Borkum and North Frisian Island of Helgoland.

The tourist offices have information on canal tours and canoe hire, and can give tips on a favoured East Frisian past-time – cycling (see the boxed text, Click here).

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Sleeping & Eating

The tourist office at the train station is a well-run outfit with a walk-in and advance room-booking service. Options are not abundant, so it pays to use it.

DJH hostel ( 237 97; www.jugendherberge.de/jh/emden; An der Kesselschleuse 5, off Thorner Strasse; dm under/over 27yr €18.10/21.10; closed Nov-Feb; ) With some dorms in stand-alone bungalows, this place feels more like a holiday camp than a hostel. Popular with schools and other groups, its canal-side location offers plenty of swimming, canoeing and cycling opportunities. Take bus 3003 to Realschule/Am Herrentor.

Heerens Hotel ( 237 40; www.heerenshotel.de, in German; Friedrich-Ebert-Strasse 67; s €55-79, d €69-103, ste €128; ) The generously sized rooms here are comfortable, better value and as good as – if not better than – those of other hotels in its vicinity. Next door is an inexpensive Serbian restaurant. Wi-fi, though, is with a credit card and expensive.

Goldener Adler ( 927 30; Neutorstrasse 5; s/d from €73/88) Rooms here are comfortable but tending to small; it is right in the centre of town and on the water.

Hotel am Boltentor ( 972 70; fax 972 733; Hinter dem Rahmen 10; s/d €76/98; ) Hidden by trees from the main road nearby and just a minute from the Kunsthalle, this homey red-brick hotel has possibly the best location in town, plus comfy and well-equipped rooms.

Carlino Osteria Enoteca ( 923 080; Alter Markt 9; pizza & pasta €5-9, meat & fish mains €16.50-22; lunch & dinner Tue-Sun; ) This Italian restaurant near the tourist office pavilion offers more than the run-of-the-mill traditional fish and meat dishes you find around the centre.

Emden is not really the place for outrageous nights, but if you came here under the delusion it was, then explore Neuer Markt, where you can unearth a place to hip-hop and a couple of cafes and bars.

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Getting There & Around

Emden is connected by rail to Oldenburg (€15.20, 70 minutes) and Bremen (€23, 1¾ hours). Despite its relative remoteness, the town is easily and quickly reached via the A31, which connects with the A28 from Oldenburg and Bremen. The B70/B210 runs north from Emden to other towns in Friesland and to the coast.

Emden is small enough to be explored on foot but also has a bus system (€1.10 per trip). The best transport method is the bicycle (see the boxed text, Click here).

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