Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [612]
Erikas Eck (Map; 433 545; Sternstrasse 98; mains €5.90-17.90; 5pm-2am) Wood-lined Erikas has been serving up traditional home cooking since the golden oldies on its radio were first-time hits. Most of its filling fare, including schnitzels, herrings and Schweinebraten (roast pork), costs under €10.
East (Map; 309 930; Simon-von-Utrecht-Strasse 31; lunch mains €9.50-18.50, dinner mains €20.50-29; noon-11pm Sun-Wed, 2pm-midnight Thu-Sat) Housed in a converted 19th-century iron factory, the Euro-Asian restaurant at this design hotel Click here is bathed in ethereal light from cathedral-style pink, purple, orange and yellow stained-glass windows, while wavy treelike striated columns stretch from the basement floor to the ceiling above the mezzanine Yakshi’s bar. Private lounges are hidden in the white honeycomb wall. Book ahead.
La Sepia (Map; 432 2066; Schulterblatt 36; mains €12-20; noon-3am) The aroma of fresh fish wafting from this neighbourhood restaurant stops you in your tracks. Its enormous dining space is adorned with a hotchpotch of maritime relics, like old wooden boats suspended from the ceiling, while dishes incorporate Portuguese and Spanish influences.
Also recommended:
Bok (Map; 4318 3597; Schulterblatt 3; lunch mains €5.70-9.20, dinner mains €9.30-14.70; ) A popular Hamburg minichain. Duck makes a frequent appearance on its pan-Asian menu.
Shikara Quick (Map; 430 2353; Susannen-strasse 20; mains €5.90-8.50; noon-midnight; ) Another excellent Hamburg minichain, cooking tasty Indian curries.
Thai Cowboy’s (Map; 430 8025; Susannenstrasse 18; mains €6.20-8.50; 11.30am-10pm; ) Fragrant stand-up Thai fare.
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Universitätsviertel
Hadley’s ( 450 5075; Beim Schlump 84a; dishes €2.90-8.50, brunch Sun €16.80; 10am-late Mon-Sat, 11am-late Sun; Schlump; ) This stylish yet relaxed cafe-bar was once the emergency room of a historic Wilhelminian-style former hospital, now a hotel (Click here). Through the door curtains, the enveloping dining room and mezzanine open onto a terrace and leafy garden. Home-baked treats features on the simple but stellar menu. Regular events include live jazz on Monday nights from 8pm.
Balutschi (Map; 452 479; Grindelallee 33; mains €5.50-14.50; lunch & dinner; ) Out the back of this Pakistani restaurant, there’s an over-the-top Arabian Nights–style grotto, where you remove your shoes and sit on carpets and low benches. The multicourse banquet menus are particularly good value if there are two or more of you.
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HAMBURG’S UNIQUE FISH MARKET
Every Sunday morning, in the wee hours, an unusual ritual unfolds along the banks of the Elbe. A fleet of small trucks rumbles onto the cobbled pavement. Hardy types emerge from the drivers’ cabins and set out to turn their vehicles into stores on wheels. They artfully arrange their bananas, apples, cauliflower and whatever else they’ve harvested that week. Others pile up slippery eels, smoked fish fillets and fresh shrimp in tasteful displays. In another corner, cacti, flowers and leafy plants wait for customers. It’s not yet 5am as the first customers begin to trundle in, hyper from a night of partying in adjacent St Pauli. Let the trading begin!
The Fischmarkt (Map; 5am-9.30am Sun Apr-Sep, 7am-9.30am Sun Oct-Mar) in St Pauli has been a Hamburg institution since 1703 and still defines the city’s life and spirit. Locals of every age and walk of life join curious tourists, and you can buy everything from cheap sweatshirts to tulips.
The undisputed stars of the event – and great, free entertainment – are the boisterous Markt-schreier (market criers) who hawk their wares at the top of their lungs. ‘Don’t be shy, little