Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [614]
Lust auf Italien (Map; 382 811; Grosse Elbstrasse 133; mains €7-17; noon-midnight; ) Plonk yourself down at one of the communal wooden benches at this unpretentious, family-friendly restaurant. The pasta and fish dishes are homey rather than gourmet, but the seafood tastes like it’s just leapt from the sea.
La Vela (Map; 3869 9393; Grosse Elbstrasse 27; mains €8.50-23.50; noon-11pm; ) Cruise and container ships glide by just outside the window of this buzzing, semiformal Italian restaurant. With such unusually close-up views, it keeps most other things simple: the redbrick interior is uncluttered and the menu is sparse, with about a dozen choices for mains. The only complicated thing is the enormous wine list.
Fischereihafen (Map; 381 816; Grosse Elbstrasse 143; lunch mains €8.50-14.50, dinner mains €18.50-28.50; lunch & dinner) Traditional and incredibly elegant, Fischereihafen serves some of Hamburg’s finest fish, including regional specialities, to a mature, well-heeled clientele. Its 1st-floor, subtly maritime-themed dining room overlooks the Elbe.
Henssler & Henssler (Map; 3869 9000; Grosse Elbstrasse 160; mains €12.50-26; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) This smart-casual spot doesn’t really ‘do’ views: it’s across the road from the water and has an opaque frontage. But couples, business people and young families all pack its minimalist concrete-floored milieu for its delectable sushi.
Le Canard Nouveau (Map; 8812 9531; Elbchaussee 139; mains €32-36, menus €48-99; lunch & dinner Tue-Fri, dinner Sat) Turkish-born chef Ali Güngörmüs has deservedly claimed a Michelin star for his intricate dishes, such as turbot with polenta soufflé, duck with apple-ginger purée, and chocolate cake with rhubarb jelly, marinated strawberries and honey-and-sour-cream ice cream. Definitely book ahead. Güngörmüs also runs regular cooking classes, which cost €200 for five hours, including meal and wines.
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DRINKING
Listings in Prinz (http://hamburg.prinz.de), Oxmox (www.oxmoxhh.de) and Szene (www.szene-hamburg.de), and their websites, are in German, but non-German speakers will also find them helpful for navigating the enormous bar scene.
Nachtasyl (Map; 814 444; Alstertor 1; from 7pm) Hamburg’s city centre is usually like the Mary Celeste of an evening, but it does boast this unusual beauty, with its high-arched ceiling and embossed wallpaper.
Dual (Map; 4320 8829; Schanzenstrasse 53; from 11.30am Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat, from 4pm Sun) Within its chic orange, 1970s retro interior, the loungey vibe at this elongated space is perfect for an espresso or cocktails.
Nouar (Map; 430 8949; Max-Brauer-Allee 275; from 7pm) A popular late-night bar with students and other denizens of the nearby Schanzenviertel, this place has that relaxed secondhand look going on and a fondness for football during the week.
Zoë 2/Summun Bonum (Map; Neuer Pferdemarkt 17; from noon) The share-house decor here is such a home from home for students that you’ll often see them snoozing in its battered secondhand sofas.
Meanie Bar (Map; 310 845; www.molotowclub.com, in German; Spielbudenplatz 5; from 6pm) One of the few venues along the Reeperbahn with local cred, the retro Meanie Bar is a hang-out for musos and artists.
Tower Bar (Map; www.hotel-hafen-hamburg.de; Seewartenstrasse 9; 6pm-1am Mon-Thu, 6pm-2.30am Fri-Sun) For a more elegant, mature evening, repair to this 14th-floor eyrie at the Hotel Hafen for unbeatable harbour views.
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HAMBURG’S UNLIKELY BEACH BARS
When it comes to city beaches, you have to hand it to Hamburgers for their can-do spirit. Undeterred by the cranes, shipbuilding docks and steel containers decorating their city’s workaholic port, and renowned Schmuddelwetter (drizzly weather), they’ve begun shipping in tonnes of sand to the industrial waterfront.
The city beach season kicks off in spring and lasts until at least September,