Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [624]
Alte Mühle ( 707 2592; Mühlendamm 24; mains €4.80-13.50; from 3pm Mon-Sat, from 12.30pm Sun; ) In a historic old mill on the banks of the Trave River, this rustic bistro serves fabulous Flammkuchen (Alsatian pizzas) along with steaks and seasonal specialities. There’s a clutch of garden-set tables in summer. Definitely worth the detour.
Tipasa ( 706 0451; Schlumacherstrasse 12-14; lunch mains €7.50-8.50, dinner mains €8.50-17.50; from noon; ) International dishes like pizzas and curries are served below the Australian Aboriginal dot paintings and faux caveman frescoes of animals. The eclectic decor comes together surprisingly well to create a relaxed ambience.
Schiffergesellschaft ( 767 76; Breite Strasse 2; mains €11.50-24.50; 10am-11pm) Opened in 1535 as the dining room for the Blue Water Captains’ Guild, Lübeck’s best restaurant is a veritable museum. Ships’ lanterns, original model ships dating from 1607 and orange Chinese-style lamps with revolving maritime silhouettes adorn the wood-lined rooms, which include an elevated banquet room up the back. As you sit on long benches resembling church pews, staff in long white aprons bring you Frisian specialities. On balmy nights, head up a flight of steps to the hidden garden out back.
Nui ( 203 7333; Beckergrube 72; sushi €1.80-15.50, mains €11.90-14.50; lunch & dinner Mon-Fri, 3-10pm Sat, closed Sun; ) Tempting aromas waft from artfully arranged plates in this trendy but relaxed Thai/Japanese restaurant.
Miera ( 772 12; Hüxstrasse 57; mains €14.50-23.50, 3-/4-/5-course menu €33/38/45; 9am-10pm; ) You can sit down for a platter of antipasti or pick up gourmet picnic goodies at this sophisticated delicatessen-bistro. Reserve ahead to dine in the formal restaurant on elegant Italian fare.
Markgraf ( 706 0343; Fischergrube 18; mains €14.50-23.50, 3-/4-/5-course menu €33/41/48; dinner Tue-Sun) White tablecloths and silverware are laid out under the chandeliers and black ceiling beams of this historic, ochre-coloured 14th-century house. Exquisitely presented dishes include the likes of grain-fed chicken with sherry tomato fondue, and lemon ricotta mousse for dessert.
Vai ( 400 8083; Hüxstrasse 42; lunch mains €8-16.50, dinner mains €16-26, 3-/4-course menu €35/42; noon-11pm) Glossy, richly grained timber lines the walls, tables and even the alfresco courtyard of this sleek restaurant. Veal braised in red wine with puréed potatoes is a highlight of its contemporary menu.
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Drinking
Grenadine ( 307 2950; Wahmstrasse 40; 9am-midnight Mon-Thu, 9am-1am Fri & Sat, 9am-3pm Sun) This narrow, elongated bar leads through to a garden out back. A recent transformation has seen its decor pared down in chic, retro-minimalist style, such as carpet panels cladding the walls. Similarly simple German/Italian dishes are served at lunch (€6 to €12.90).
Café Remise ( 777 73; Wahmstrasse 43-45; 9am-late Mon-Fri, 10am-late Sat & Sun) An arty crowd sips wine in the vine-draped courtyard of this split-level cafe, but it also serves decent bistro fare (dishes €3.30 to €10.70).
Im Alten Zolln ( 723 95; Mühlenstrasse 93-95; 11am-late; ) There’s a slightly alternative vibe at this classic pub, where patrons people-watch from the terrace in summer and watch bands inside in winter.
Brauberger ( 702 0606; Alfstrasse 36; 5pm-midnight Mon-Thu, 5pm-late Fri & Sat) This traditional German brewer has been serving its own golden amber since 1225.
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Entertainment
Local listings magazines include Piste (www.piste.de) and Ultimo (www.ultimo-luebeck.de), both in German.
MUSIC
Ask the tourist office about church organ concert dates.
Musikhochschule Lübeck ( 150 50; www.mh-luebeck.de; Grosse Petersgrube 17-29) High-calibre concerts (mostly free) take place throughout the summer and winter semesters at this music academy.
Musik und Kongresshalle ( 790 40; www.muk.de; Willy-Brandt-Allee 10) Notable for the colourful statues