Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [628]
If you’re on a tight schedule but would like a closer look at the canal, you can see the Schleusen (locks) at Holtenau, north of Kiel. The viewing platform (adult/child €1/0.50) here is open from sunrise to sunset. There’s a museum (Nord-Ostsee-Kanal Ausstellung Schleusenmuseum; 360 30; adult/concession €2.30/1.50) on the southern side of the canal. German-speakers may be interested in tours of the locks ( 360 30; adult/concession €2.30/1.50). These depart at 9am, 11am, 1pm and 3pm daily from March to October from the northern side. To get to the locks, take bus 11 to Wik, Kanal. A free ferry shuttles back and forth between the southern and northern banks.
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Festivals & Events
Kiel’s biggest annual event is the giant Kieler Woche (Kiel Week; 679 100; www.kieler-woche.de) held during the last full week of June. Revolving around a series of yachting regattas, it’s attended by more than 4000 of the world’s sailing elite and half a million spectators. Even if you’re not into boats, it’s one nonstop party. Some concerts are free; book ahead for other events.
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Sleeping
The tourist office has a list of private rooms starting from around €25 per night. Kiel has a DJH hostel ( 731 488; www.jugendherberge.de/jh/kiel; Johannestrasse 1; closed mid-Dec–early Jan). Take bus 11 from the Hauptbahnhof to the Karlstal stop, or walk 900m along Hörnbrücke.
Campingplatz Falckenstein ( 392 078; www.campingkiel.de, in German; Palisadenweg 171; adult €4.50, tent €4.90-7.50; Apr-Oct; ) Situated on the western bank of Kiel firth, 17km north of the city centre, facilities at this waterside camping ground include a solarium and sauna.
Peanuts Hostel ( 364 2208; www.peanuts-hostel.de; Harriesstrasse 2; dm €18, s/d €28/48; ) With just eight beds and a snug lounge room, this little locally run hostel inside an 1895 town house gives you the feeling you’re staying with friends. It’s an easy walk from the ferries and Hauptbahnhof, as well as cosy neighbourhood pubs and restaurants. Call ahead to confirm your arrival time.
Bekpek Kiel ( 888 8009; www.bekpek-kiel.de; Kronshagener Weg 130a; dm €21-27, s €30, d €52-65, linen €3.50; reception 8am-noon & 4-8pm or by arrangement; ) To get to this independent hostel, you have to take a bus from the centre (bus 34, 100 or 101 to Dehnckestrasse). But it’s worth it for the sociable atmosphere, sunshine-coloured modern rooms and little extras like fresh peppermint tea.
Basic Hotel City ( 986 800; www.nordic-hotels.com, in German; Muhliusstrasse 95; s €45-135, d €65-180 incl breakfast; ) Despite its prosaic name, rooms here are modern and spacious, and nothing is too much for the friendly staff, whether organising a courier or feeding a hungry guest after hours.
Hotel Berliner Hof ( 663 40; www.berlinerhof-kiel.de; Ringstrasse 6; s €65-100, d €95-125 incl breakfast; ) Although completely modern, this epicentral hotel has been in the same family since it opened in 1902. Above the faux-marble reception area with red leather lounges, there are two main room types: newer, lighter rooms with funky abstract quilts and splashes of bright colours, and a cheaper, more mainstream variety. Three of the 103 rooms are equipped for wheelchairs.
Hotel Am Schwedenkai ( 986 4220; www.hotel-am-schwedenkai.de; Holstenbrücke 28; s €67-118, d €88-190 incl breakfast; ) Kiel’s portside atmosphere is evoked at this central hotel, 100m from the Sophienhof shopping centre, which has fabulous views of the waterfront from the front rooms, and direct access to the ferry docks. Rooms are simple but appealing, with Nordic blue, white and pale timber colour schemes.
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A MOVEABLE MUSICAL FEAST
During the statewide Schleswig-Holstein Music Festival (www.shmf.de) you might find yourself