Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [632]
DOM ST PETRI & AROUND
With its steeple towering above the town, the Dom St Petri ( 989 585; Süderholmstrasse 2; 9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 1.30-5pm Sun May-Sep, 10am-4pm Mon-Sat, 1.30-4pm Sun Oct-Apr) provides an excellent point of orientation. It’s also home to the intricate Bordesholmer Altar (1521), a carving by Hans Brüggemann. The 12.6m by 7.14m altar, on the wall furthest from the entrance, shows more than 400 figures in 24 scenes relating the story of the Passion of Christ – the result of extraordinary craftsmanship and patience.
While here, don’t forget to explore the cobbled cluster of streets behind the cathedral, especially Rathhausmarkt.
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Tours
Several companies offer a vast array of boat trips up the 40km Schlei between April and October from varying landing docks (on-board commentary is in German).
Operators are:
Schlei-Ausflugsfahrten ( 6184; www.schlei-ausflugsfahrten.de, in German)
Schleischiffahrt A Bischoff ( 233 19; www.schleischifffahrt.de, in German)
Schleswiger Hafenrundfahrten ( 275 30; www.schleifahrten.de, in German)
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Sleeping
Many hotels in Schleswig close their reception at 10pm (some as early as 6pm). You can still phone them after closing time, but it’s always better to call at least half a day ahead.
Campingplatz Haithabu ( 324 50; www.campingplatz-haithabu.de, in German; per adult/tent/car €3.50/6/2; Mar-Oct; ) This well-equipped camping ground is right on the southern shore of the Schlei in Haddeby, with a great view of the Schleswig skyline. Take bus 4810 or catch a ferry (Click here) in summer.
DJH hostel ( 238 93; www.jugendherberge.de/jh/schleswig; Spielkoppel 1; under/over 26yr €17.20/21.20 incl breakfast; closed Dec-Jan; ) Noise is an afternoon phenomenon at this renovated hostel that’s popular with families and school groups. The nearest bus stop is Stadttheater, from where it’s a 10- to 15-minute walk.
Hotel Alter Kreisbahnhof ( 302 00; www.hotel-alter-kreisbhahnhof.de, in German; Königstrasse 9; s/d incl breakfast €54/93; ) Some of the spacious rooms at this new boutique hotel-restaurant, based in a turreted former railway station, have water views. Splashes of vivid colours like fuchsia brighten the restaurant (mains €8.40 to €14.90), which serves creative regional cuisine.
Bed & Breakfast am Dom ( 485 992; www.bb-schleswig.de; Töpferstrasse 9; s/d incl breakfast €60/85; ) You’d scarcely guess there’s a building behind all the ivy, let alone one this spacious. From the long, narrow dining room, the six bedrooms and guest sitting room stretch back to the private garden, with a pretty summerhouse pavilion. Decor in the 200-year-old town house combines historic, romantic and designer touches.
Zollhaus ( 239 47; www.zollhaus-schleswig.de, in German; Lollfuss 110; s €79-95, d €95-109 incl breakfast; ) Culture vultures coming to neighbouring Schloss Gottorf will enjoy the refined (but totally unstuffy) atmosphere and comfortable rooms at this 200-year-old customs house. Its highly regarded restaurant (mains €16.50 to €28.50) specialises in seafood.
Waldschlösschen ( 3830; www.hotel-waldschloesschen.de; Kolonnenweg 152; s €80-90, d €95-149; ) At the western edge of Schleswig, 2km from the town centre, you can set about the serious business of relaxing at this elegant, family-run hotel on the Schlei. The most appealing of its rooms are themed (such as maritime or Africa), you can steam or soak in its wellness centre, sip cocktails in the bar and dine on gourmet cuisine (mains €14 to €21.50).
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Eating & Drinking
Several of Schleswig’s hotels Click here have excellent restaurants. You’ll also find appealing restaurants around the main ‘square’ of pint-sized Holm.
Panorama ( 245 80; Plessenstrasse 15; mains €7.90-13.50; lunch & dinner Mon-Fri,