Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [635]
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Tours
The MS Viking ( 167 2674; www.viking-schifffahrt.de, in German; adult/child return €7/4) operates scenic cruises to Glücksburg (one hour each way), departing from where Norderhofenden meets Schiffbrücke. Boats leave at least four times daily from March to December (none in January or February).
Slightly closer to the bus station, the MS Möwe ( 629 45; www.ms-moewe.net, in German; adult/child €7/4) offers hour-long cruises around the firth five times daily from June to August, and three times daily in April, May, September and October.
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Sleeping
DJH hostel ( 377 42; www.djh-nordmark.de/jh/flensburg; Fichtestrasse 16; under/over 26yr €18/21 incl breakfast; closed mid-Dec–mid-Feb; ) Hidden down a leafy lane near the local football stadium, this is very popular with school sporting teams, so brace yourself for lots of noise and restless activity. Facilities are tip-top, though, and the ride from town (on bus 3, 5 or 7 to the Stadion bus stop) only takes about five minutes.
Hotel Handwerkerhaus ( 144 800; www.hotel-handwerkerhaus.de, in German; Augustastrasse 2; s €47.50-55, d €67.50-75; ) Although this small, redbrick hotel is more characterful on the outside than it is inside, its old-fashioned, built-in timber-furnished rooms are spotlessly clean and it’s in a quiet side street just one block east of the bus station.
Hotel Xenia ( 160 620; www.hotelxenia.de, in German; Süderhofenden 38; s/d incl breakfast €55/82; ) At the eastern edge of the Altstadt, just south of the historic Johanniskirche (built from fieldstones in the 12th century), this whitewashed hotel has just nine charming rooms under its sloping roof, and opens to a private, flower-filled garden.
Hotel Dittmer’s Gasthof ( 240 52; www.dittmersgasthof.de; Neumarkt 2-3; s/d €60/95; ) This flower-festooned historic inn at the southern edge of the city centre has been run by the same family for more than 100 years. Rooms are cosy and the welcome particularly warm.
For all-out luxury, head to the Strandhotel Glücksburg (opposite) in nearby Glücksburg.
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Eating & Drinking
Marien-Café ( 500 9711; Norderstrasse 11-13; dishes €2.90-13.90; 8am-6pm; ) Splurge on a sumptuous slice of homemade cake or linger over a long breakfast beneath the china teapots hanging from the ceiling of this quaint tearoom.
Hansens Brauerei ( 222 10; Schiffbrücke 16; meals €7.80-15.80; 11.30am-midnight) Simple but hearty German fare – homemade meatballs, roast pork, herrings – is served at this brewery opposite the waterfront, although most people order food to accompany the wide range of beers (including some great seasonal beers) amid the copper boilers.
Porterhouse im Gnomenkeller ( 221 16; Holm 3; mains €11.90-32.50; 11.30am-11pm) Heading through the metal gates inconspicuously set in the blank facade of a row of shops and descending the short flight of stairs brings you to this cross-vaulted cellar with tables in low-lit corners. Even the heartiest of appetites will be challenged by the XXL-sized steaks.
Piet Henningsen ( 245 76; Schiffbrücke 20; mains €14.50-29.50; 11.30am-11.30pm) Locals say that Wer dat Piet nicht kennt, hat de Tied verpennt (He who doesn’t know Piet’s has missed the tide). Heed their advice: this atmospheric spot is crammed with exotic souvenirs brought home by sailors: African statues and ceramics, Indonesian wall hangings, ship models, empty rum bottles, a leopard skin and a stuffed crocodile. Argentine steaks aside, the menu is a smorgasbord of seafood.
On the eastern bank of the firth are two excellent restaurants in neighbouring waterfront locations:
Mäder’s ( 150 7900; Ballastkai 9; mains €13.90-24.50; 10am-11.30pm; ) One of northern Germany’s very few all-organic restaurants, serving Mediterranean-inspired dishes.
Jessen’s Fischperle ( 182 8230; Ballastkai 4-6; mains €16.70-19.50; 11.30am-9.30pm) Outstanding seafood.